tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72126838482739688922024-03-05T23:38:06.233+08:00Vortex Electricavortexelectricahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00055961513490110863noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-83333691756748798852021-03-08T09:22:00.001+08:002021-03-12T10:57:44.372+08:00 A pretty hippie ant trap.<p><b><span style="color: #fcff01;">Enter... dowels.</span></b></p><p>Ahem. I apologize if I sound episodic. But I like it.</p><p>James Hetfield had a guitar made of a garage. No, it was really from the wooden garage wall which they spent their days writing two of their early records. Sentimental, like me. You can check out his <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd9LfzWTaLQ&pbjreload=101">interview</a>.</p><p>So as the interview goes, the wood from the garage walls used to make the guitar body was kinda soft. So to fit in the components which makes the guitar (I don't know what you guys call them all, fretboards and pickups and all that stuff), the guitar craftsman had to dowel certain parts of the garage wood surface with very dense and hard wood so that the fretboard and other parts of the guitar remain stable.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzMS1_ENCuPUNOFnM_lQrlQMXRXRubJfmPZz9MiYIJTMhIZTj8H7nnT0EF5ectociHMBO3pGJlfI5S0VBAk6G12Bffa_OI0iN5U4WmKhZZesS7aHgCTRiYsmQQmO36PDkjA3uHGDhx48/s1365/Picture1.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="1365" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzMS1_ENCuPUNOFnM_lQrlQMXRXRubJfmPZz9MiYIJTMhIZTj8H7nnT0EF5ectociHMBO3pGJlfI5S0VBAk6G12Bffa_OI0iN5U4WmKhZZesS7aHgCTRiYsmQQmO36PDkjA3uHGDhx48/w518-h280/Picture1.png" width="518" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />Meet Carl.</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Which brings me to the next part of the story, which is mine. </p><p><b><span style="color: #fcff01;">Enter.... ants. </span></b></p><p>I don't know about you guys, but ants just love getting into our drinking water. </p><p>Traditionally for us back in the days at home, ant traps are hindered from reaching the water with... Water. A lazy way to do it is to just use a big plate to keep water and a small tripod to hold a water kettle above it. The problem with this technique is that: the water tends to evaporate pretty fast (Remember Malaysia is a hot country!) and get mucky and looks icky after some time. Then, there'll be these slick mossy brown films which develop on the plate surfaces, which is, gross!</p><p><span style="color: #fcff01;"><b>Enter... Monkeys and oil.</b></span></p><p>I've been making them traps out of countless different stuff since college days and it seems I'm the only one bothered enough to make a trap. It's not like my roommates were not enjoying the unadulterated water too (Hear that Hizami and Ayie? Now Adil and Kamal... I'm not sure if they drank from my jug). Here's one which is probably the earliest concept I conceived during those days (I think this was in 2007):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_pJBhkLCsJ2wLDZVJ_aRcSm3L3yaUKrRrsACWdz5P7smPg41Pgsgv4iKVNspg4t6Zh_5iJ_d05Qpr0f17YFPPev0EqaydpUE3atnFObeFnRpSvG9_ITnD60x1i0OAvr7XPxs9yQc3CM/s1440/thumbnail+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_pJBhkLCsJ2wLDZVJ_aRcSm3L3yaUKrRrsACWdz5P7smPg41Pgsgv4iKVNspg4t6Zh_5iJ_d05Qpr0f17YFPPev0EqaydpUE3atnFObeFnRpSvG9_ITnD60x1i0OAvr7XPxs9yQc3CM/w322-h429/thumbnail+%25281%2529.jpg" width="322" /></a></div><br /><p>If you noticed, the jug of water was standing precariously over the super-advanced mishmash of plastic containers. I too, like to live dangerously. There were days monkeys came for a little noodling for off-the-table tidbits (our colleges were next to reserve jungles in University of Malaya. Any UM student can talk endlessly about monkeys and their sordid affairs). One monkey was noodling around carelessly and... yep. The jug of water toppled, spilling water all over the table and nearly totaled my laptop computer. Luckily... it was propped up so it didn't flood the circuitry.</p><p>Anyways. Later I figured out.. <b>what if we don't need water to stop them ants?</b> So I experimented with cooking oil. The concept is simple: a platform, three legs with small bowls, and a few drops of oil. Voila! So later, I made those traps with oil (regretfully many prototypes were not photographed) and they work fine. Ants love water, but they despise oil. Suffice to say I was getting better at this. So back at home we tried it with those generic tripods for putting pots and it seemed to work quite ok.</p><p>And the most important thing about oil? <b><span style="color: red;">They don't evaporate</span></b>. At least not easily.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhweblXhDoTaHAPIYlhIWXlJUiVGOnTNpMrGQcxbr0TtBQiGSsTKYjU8Yiu9n63QfVAynj82W8QJqHrIiytS66nUKRj6FpYM8CbTW_MXEbXtoOTQMl-RNTqXIwDg0dnJw7P0S2RE70eHj4/s1080/thumbnail.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="810" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhweblXhDoTaHAPIYlhIWXlJUiVGOnTNpMrGQcxbr0TtBQiGSsTKYjU8Yiu9n63QfVAynj82W8QJqHrIiytS66nUKRj6FpYM8CbTW_MXEbXtoOTQMl-RNTqXIwDg0dnJw7P0S2RE70eHj4/w308-h411/thumbnail.jpg" width="308" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Much later in my life, I learnt 3D printing and naturally I revisited my obsession with making better traps. Here's one "failed" design:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1N3DWgXdoeB0aQJRNJWgco9EnOxFDn5NTMB1DmAEEY0sPLAMCpdboAQLrG2tAVgsqUMEMBjOmzBwsYoWNGV3ksQTeBCZ14gd2yKwYpaW7x6ZP84mBRuqfuwwamqAxnS4rUmz6SMYeFE/s1080/thumbnail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1N3DWgXdoeB0aQJRNJWgco9EnOxFDn5NTMB1DmAEEY0sPLAMCpdboAQLrG2tAVgsqUMEMBjOmzBwsYoWNGV3ksQTeBCZ14gd2yKwYpaW7x6ZP84mBRuqfuwwamqAxnS4rUmz6SMYeFE/w380-h380/thumbnail.jpg" width="380" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my earlier prototypes. Notice the leg coming through the platform on the right side. Structural failure.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>This trap was 3D printed with expired PLA filament, which is kinda soft when heated even just to 70°C. The legs were separately designed so that it can be screwed and unscrewed when cleaning is needed. One more issue is that these kind of designs take waaaaaaaaaaaay too much filament material, and this makes printing them taking forever. <b>What if</b>... I just print the legs and use another readily available platform? Now, if you knew me, you'd know that I don't just buy things to make them. <b><span style="color: red;">No sir... I'll not go to the store to buy any plastic defecate and easily wiggle my way through currency</span>.</b> I'll usually try to take something unusable, and make it useful. Which brings me to my next story.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: #fcff01;"><b>Enter... unusable chopping boards.</b></span></p><p>Let's fly back to 2013. Imagine you're in a remote village, hot and humid, and a running river with boats clunking around. The main roads are paved, but the trail to the village houses are graveled. Palm trees everywhere. I was getting married.</p><p>During the time, my father-in-law cut down an old durian tree to be further chopped into segments of chopping boards - they downed a cow for the ceremony and these chopping boards are made to be disposable for one-off events. Here's one:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7_enVJNDgmW4u8NvwbEdqwh0wYNPuZXmIRSp-sB7oibJ3UPFGCuKbJrjni_7V54PBftiiRcCLdhgUzn7FSMhQ4V-75VuK50KQbcjYlzL9dgQXFdq4cnyGyBHESoByLOSznrOCLG1rho/s1602/Picture3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7_enVJNDgmW4u8NvwbEdqwh0wYNPuZXmIRSp-sB7oibJ3UPFGCuKbJrjni_7V54PBftiiRcCLdhgUzn7FSMhQ4V-75VuK50KQbcjYlzL9dgQXFdq4cnyGyBHESoByLOSznrOCLG1rho/s320/Picture3.png" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Notice how raw it looks? Yep. It was cut with a chainsaw (as locals call it.. "chen-so") and immediately used later. And the crack developed within a year.</p><p>So after the wrap up of the event, they left with piles of these chopping boards. I've seen these things being sold at rm50 apiece (albeit the ones sold on the roadside has to be made of much better wood.. but anyway) so I asked for them to be brought back for mementos. Needless to say, they weren't much of being chopping boards in the long run because they tend to crack as you can see. So they lie in the dark not long after that, growing God knows what on the surface.</p><p>I gave away four of these bad boys to my siblings when I returned from my reception back then. They ALL cracked. But now... they can serve a new purpose!</p><p>Initially, (<b><span style="color: red;">and this was before I knew how to 3D print stuff</span></b>) I just used a small plastic pipe (used as retainers in newly bought shoes), cut them into three or four parts, and fit keypads from used computer keyboards. Then, the keypads are filled with only a small amount of cooking oil. No evaporation issue, and ants just hate it. They'll come and leap into water barricades and sometimes prevail to kamikaze in the main reservoir, but not oil. Here's one of the older designs I made:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiFTTXDWIihSqrYnA67DKs8bFZ43vHPltnDD5oBlrAxQLAhd0fbAjS1hnyIUs4DnZ-ag0RGFU5wfBmK8g5R_Kfu9uzWQ1pLiGx_oe16xRtGXt9m_mI4w7rSt5-VlQuABLlbRLQDg83qw/s1579/Picture4.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="1579" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiFTTXDWIihSqrYnA67DKs8bFZ43vHPltnDD5oBlrAxQLAhd0fbAjS1hnyIUs4DnZ-ag0RGFU5wfBmK8g5R_Kfu9uzWQ1pLiGx_oe16xRtGXt9m_mI4w7rSt5-VlQuABLlbRLQDg83qw/w567-h218/Picture4.png" width="567" /></a></div><br /><p>They worked well. No ants, and happy days for quite a while. </p><p><b>Except </b>these keypads are... a bit small and difficult to clean. You see, the problem with these traps now are that they'll gather dust and the ants will use the dust as a bridge for their little Lemming Leaps. Cleaning these things are messy because I have to fumble with the whole fuselage (and it's quite heavy!). Since the keypads are too small, the distance from the edge of the keypad to the legs of the trap is too small. This makes it still somewhat possible for the ants to waddle through the oil as I experienced before, though with difficulty. It is not unusual to still find an ant once in a while. </p><p>Also, as I have observed, ants have a know how when it comes to oil. They will just gather oil-absorbing materials around it such as cat hair, cobwebs with dust, and all that. And if the oil-filled base plate is not big enough, it'll create a bridge!! You have to admit... these guys are perhaps one of the most adaptable creatures I have ever encountered. Then, the legs are too short. </p><p>This makes dripping oil into the "bowls" difficult and tedious. So I'd have to make the design somehow:</p><p>1. Easily cleanable oil-reservoirs</p><p>2. Long legs</p><p>3. Save (3D printing) materials as much as possible</p><p><br /></p><p>And now we come full circle. </p><p><b><span style="color: #fcff01;">Enter... dowels.</span></b></p><p>Now we arrive to the final design. A design to end all designs. The one which I'll just 3D print, but still retain the wooden board. But how do we do this? Well the fun part was: <b><span style="color: red;">enter Papa Het</span></b>! (Or Sandman?) As I told in the beginning of this entry. With the dowel concept I was inspired with, I designed the <b>dowel and nut hybrid</b>, while also designing the leg with the liquid barrier, and with this I can design it to be easier to clean since it can be unscrewed. I made the oil cup a bit flatter and wider compared to the keyboard pieces.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0W8Gw0DlL8yyhLvzTKjgxWIQdQzSKM7gceJiskJLUAXxtzXVJXykORJlLlfMLfWFMF2K2SFdmcGpsDwNOw8hqLXWZ_PmXk0d7Xpe4uLP9D6rn8CPS0LjcjdqN82HuhHKGLq033praYs/s394/ezgif-3-8f801b8b9dfd.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="394" data-original-width="376" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0W8Gw0DlL8yyhLvzTKjgxWIQdQzSKM7gceJiskJLUAXxtzXVJXykORJlLlfMLfWFMF2K2SFdmcGpsDwNOw8hqLXWZ_PmXk0d7Xpe4uLP9D6rn8CPS0LjcjdqN82HuhHKGLq033praYs/s320/ezgif-3-8f801b8b9dfd.gif" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The size of the dowel has to be based on the wood drill bit used in this case. I used a standard 2.5cm flat wood drill bit for making the holes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-qH4_aqI3xsC4q4hwX1wrux1ZlYHJteoqwTpk3vK1XFMLsNPhOR2ijJoWrYkMFt78lhYXyuvk7q3QEr_nDUjIMKgGsuVx4hHCL9DOdkTQG5GYshDMgPn6j1jV2Z5Y4EGY8271jsr0rxk/s2048/20210308_090649.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-qH4_aqI3xsC4q4hwX1wrux1ZlYHJteoqwTpk3vK1XFMLsNPhOR2ijJoWrYkMFt78lhYXyuvk7q3QEr_nDUjIMKgGsuVx4hHCL9DOdkTQG5GYshDMgPn6j1jV2Z5Y4EGY8271jsr0rxk/w150-h200/20210308_090649.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Here's the <a href="https://www.mediafire.com/file/zazd0b113l7ykr2/Dowel_%2526_Screw_Leg.rar/file">.STL file</a> in case you're interested. <b><span style="color: red;">For the 3D printer enthusiasts who might be curious</span></b>: I just used a free 3D design software (Autodesk 123D) and generated the GCode with Cura. Printed it all with ABS filament which I got from trash. Again... I use unwanted stuff!<br /><p> If you notice, the dowel is slightly slanted, sized approximately to the flat wood drill bit I was using so that I can just jam it up into the hole. The video might give you a better idea:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="363" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UrmNu0YzGrI" width="437" youtube-src-id="UrmNu0YzGrI"></iframe></div><p>Now let the pictures speak.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqyHIvJEu2SX4Fc-TeHOPkMvMgP_Tm062tiBauQP_CyhanMii4i22MTFNy13WdXV4armxuOhqHliauSZIxGcdSeeEzhLuMMatwE_akO4HilhnZZu0m34noDOI-NHk1Tx73NR2Ty485yQ/s1120/Picture1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1120" data-original-width="812" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqyHIvJEu2SX4Fc-TeHOPkMvMgP_Tm062tiBauQP_CyhanMii4i22MTFNy13WdXV4armxuOhqHliauSZIxGcdSeeEzhLuMMatwE_akO4HilhnZZu0m34noDOI-NHk1Tx73NR2Ty485yQ/w464-h640/Picture1.png" width="464" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>I applied three coats of wood varnish on the surface of the wood as shown in the picture. Previous ones were not waterproofed and boy.. whatever those creatures are made one heck of a job making parts of it nearly useless. Some parts of the wood turned spongy. I salvaged them by basically flooding the "soft" parts rendered by those wood mites with Elephant glue. <span style="color: red;">Take that!!</span> Then, apply 3 coats of varnish, then dried them out under the hot baking sun.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here's the final look:</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkZrauxyRBs4VTkQx_xejgmWotpEejCgN_EUU-gSZMt6Dhdr0cGpnjJ1A-YvK6ddZdjJVd6W2P4_5vzv3Cue8PZ23XCtHUFvTc8dNd3R_aPSGr-c2vafFxod-7GDbVsAzF7ei7vAcNpg/s2048/20210303_155535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkZrauxyRBs4VTkQx_xejgmWotpEejCgN_EUU-gSZMt6Dhdr0cGpnjJ1A-YvK6ddZdjJVd6W2P4_5vzv3Cue8PZ23XCtHUFvTc8dNd3R_aPSGr-c2vafFxod-7GDbVsAzF7ei7vAcNpg/s320/20210303_155535.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>I've been using the design for the past few months and they work well. But the most important thing is (at least to me) these traps can be maintained and cleaned easily if dust or ant bridge-precursors form on the oil wells. Here's one recent attempt by the ants:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="376" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y9xCvr2OisE" width="452" youtube-src-id="Y9xCvr2OisE"></iframe></div><br /><p>They can try... but it will be hard, as I have observed. Good luck, boys..</p><p><br /></p><p>That's all... and until the next post!</p><p>Vizier87</p>Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-64054939448882069312020-02-20T11:30:00.000+08:002020-02-20T11:29:34.208+08:00Construct your own DC Power Supply Mark III - The Trivium<div style="text-align: center;">
بسم الله الحمدلله والصلوة والسلام على رسول الله</div>
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Hi guys... I've been using my <a href="https://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-wall.html">Variator</a> and <a href="https://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-mark_24.html">Phaserion</a> for as long as I can remember doing projects. Especially Phaserion which was used to power up so many things, even charging drill batteries. I also learned loads making a display for Phaserion. Great days. </div>
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Nowadays my Phaserion will need to be rested and probably reconstructed. Here are the things I learned these past few years with the devices:<br />
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<li>It was not elegantly done I have to say, in retrospect. Its main issue was the stability of the output which I felt is probably due to the trimpot which was quite susceptible to temperature and physical disturbances. What I mean is: If you're just stirring things up and make the gizmo move a bit, the voltage output becomes a lot unstable. </li>
<li>The connector wires coming out of it is kinda falling apart. This is well... because the rubber insulation is crappy. I don't know why they make this things turn gooey and slimy and sticky after some time. It's like it's made to be replaced. I know the business side to this, but really guys... everyone knows that's bad business. Look at the Japs. Their stuff lasts, and so do their legacy.</li>
<li>The crocodile clips were also losing grip. I've seen this in many crocodile clips too.. so not much to say. But the ones I had were kinda kiddie types. So we'll have to move on to higher quality ones.</li>
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After a while I wanted to be better. So enter a HP adapter which was used to power up a printer. It has been in my collection for quite a long time. It had great engineering in many ways, good casing, stable electronics, etc (well... it's HP, what more can I say). Here's the fella:<br />
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The adapter has two rails: one 32V which gives out 500 mA max output current, and the 15V rail which gives out 530mA. I'll use the 32 rail.<br />
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Okay, so I've gathered some stuff over the years which will greatly improve my outlook. Here are some of the things:<br />
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<li>High-grade quality crocodile clips and wires: These clips are from salvaged grounding straps used in electronics factories. I coupled them with telephone cords; they seem to be one of the sturdiest cables I've ever seen so we'll go with it. Another advantage: the cables come with the receptacles so it'll be super easy to connect or disconnect them on demand! <a name='more'></a><div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0mDxN-BrsFQvpVCpaTmWFhpcWD8pRMWKpqrBJLMMeriNXnYcAicUrsqHI4Ua1waWZlk4uBR7PZspgF88v3iAC9vCjdyt63ic8Uqizlt9TYjwXWplLqCws2CrQswXUjoj6BSIRrkcOHg/s1600/IMG_20200219_162937.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0mDxN-BrsFQvpVCpaTmWFhpcWD8pRMWKpqrBJLMMeriNXnYcAicUrsqHI4Ua1waWZlk4uBR7PZspgF88v3iAC9vCjdyt63ic8Uqizlt9TYjwXWplLqCws2CrQswXUjoj6BSIRrkcOHg/s1600/IMG_20200219_162937.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0mDxN-BrsFQvpVCpaTmWFhpcWD8pRMWKpqrBJLMMeriNXnYcAicUrsqHI4Ua1waWZlk4uBR7PZspgF88v3iAC9vCjdyt63ic8Uqizlt9TYjwXWplLqCws2CrQswXUjoj6BSIRrkcOHg/s320/IMG_20200219_162937.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>
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Adjustable Voltage Regulators - <a href="https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slvs044x/slvs044x.pdf">LM317</a>: These voltage regulators are of a smaller packaging, the SOT-223. Capable of adjusting between 1.27 to 37V. I got them as sample from TI in the good old days when they gave them... as samples. This perhaps date back to 2013? I'm not sure</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6epkgZpCan1BBIQBmIFARd1AvPTIN-z5HQO1aLQv6_INREN5KeZotCTTPVKCfyfMyg5PowxbxZnhPpfLUvf-cLaLZFHwr7CI7eNfap_7Pvrd6UXfeayFTphaHAnIDlqngJA5YpYk4M_I/s1600/IMG_20190704_120000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="919" data-original-width="1600" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6epkgZpCan1BBIQBmIFARd1AvPTIN-z5HQO1aLQv6_INREN5KeZotCTTPVKCfyfMyg5PowxbxZnhPpfLUvf-cLaLZFHwr7CI7eNfap_7Pvrd6UXfeayFTphaHAnIDlqngJA5YpYk4M_I/s320/IMG_20190704_120000.jpg" width="320" /></a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">A low-noise potentiometer salvaged from old DVD player: Now these guys are cool because they are kinda vintage. But most importantly: they're also salvaged. This one is 50 kΩ<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rl2gqAAYFETxrLh9iP6kRMDLTg370sJLuXjLUWhuHfNQiZ4zZQJm0faaVzqXibH2bmUTxI4V4emt70eJicTQG2uRWuGxAMlvHsbYlS3cPNaItsxLYjsE11klrJ7mYX_JCuN2jGdz4K4/s1600/IMG_20190704_151653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rl2gqAAYFETxrLh9iP6kRMDLTg370sJLuXjLUWhuHfNQiZ4zZQJm0faaVzqXibH2bmUTxI4V4emt70eJicTQG2uRWuGxAMlvHsbYlS3cPNaItsxLYjsE11klrJ7mYX_JCuN2jGdz4K4/s320/IMG_20190704_151653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">Some small perfboard, a 1 kΩ resistor and assemble the circuit as shown in the <a href="https://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-mark_24.html">Phaserion</a> article.</li>
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Now to the assembling part.<br />
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1. First you'll need to take the adapter apart to access the wiring. Now, this is tricky. These adapters are not made to be pried so easily even if they have screws. After googling around, the what-have-yous recommended spraying the seamed parts with lubricant before prying it apart with a screwdriver. So I did just that. The dents on the plastic casing is, I think, pretty much inevitable.<br />
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Here's how it looked like, after opening:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFipZsN-UiSdXrYoDqQeP_EecSLCzh1FFiu8L2po_ra4GdGR18Qq5enDFAxkIaWiKtqA8GGf2Ol-7IWoYfFBIcQVv_RqdkgniPT6JCI-_xMnJs9RjDWBFaw98wZ5yVB4LNwGHeLc8HMYc/s1600/IMG_20190704_115235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFipZsN-UiSdXrYoDqQeP_EecSLCzh1FFiu8L2po_ra4GdGR18Qq5enDFAxkIaWiKtqA8GGf2Ol-7IWoYfFBIcQVv_RqdkgniPT6JCI-_xMnJs9RjDWBFaw98wZ5yVB4LNwGHeLc8HMYc/s320/IMG_20190704_115235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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2. Identify the right output terminals. This is easy. Just see where the wire which leads to the output. In this case, the terminals are shown on the left after being cut off. There are two outputs as mentioned before. We'll be taking the 37V rail, so only two wires will be used from three of the output terminals.<br />
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3. Solder the perfboard and circuit. I identified the right area to put the circuit and it is just beside the large transformer. It's safe, I insulated the circuit from the external components. Make sure you do too!<br />
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To ensure your terminals are not exposed, place your insulators before soldering and slide them into place. I used scrap wiring insulation from scrap phone chargers!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZyDBf2HYkyCiooWotI4NP7V-7ieTBBdaMO-YIUbBOgcqz5OWbc0ijC2L4c99AwkkY7NpN-cPC9ByYfRp_ogvd0ESJt2pDatv3MEyLcY-XA33DCememFUiZdRu0e4eCfLXMGam8H3Y9M/s1600/66200138_10218538516349922_8668870155255676928_o.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZyDBf2HYkyCiooWotI4NP7V-7ieTBBdaMO-YIUbBOgcqz5OWbc0ijC2L4c99AwkkY7NpN-cPC9ByYfRp_ogvd0ESJt2pDatv3MEyLcY-XA33DCememFUiZdRu0e4eCfLXMGam8H3Y9M/s640/66200138_10218538516349922_8668870155255676928_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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4. Cut some spacing on the casing to fit the output receptacle and glue it together. And drill a hole where the potentiometer knob can be exposed for adjustment. Voila!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jQ-6ASv2SdvceV5QJydF4TMi3FzJq8zJcVKwAHpQCpimPvBSl9m9gP-VeN7K0B5oTnHHSB9-OemPpwQY8jhbk5tCZGNM_KOHI2sijBRzHsJVHv6Ss-aMdOUYK2-orDvgpeHY3nI87aY/s1600/IMG_20190705_125109.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jQ-6ASv2SdvceV5QJydF4TMi3FzJq8zJcVKwAHpQCpimPvBSl9m9gP-VeN7K0B5oTnHHSB9-OemPpwQY8jhbk5tCZGNM_KOHI2sijBRzHsJVHv6Ss-aMdOUYK2-orDvgpeHY3nI87aY/s320/IMG_20190705_125109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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5. Assemble everything together. I gripped it and used a plastic plate to screw the other side of the casing since just screws are not enough the secure it again... since the last prying messed things up a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJgy9iSVVzAk3UYlGjHZODw4rr8x4OZy83GcG3IDJXcvK1U7mLY2Vw8ArFhJ6Ki2w1I5QLjVCg81oh4EVaWv5G7V6DDg7PGDNvH01LhpFU6IdTiEV20yAgm87qSqHwGeXMSgls1_WX7A/s1600/IMG_20190706_180405.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJgy9iSVVzAk3UYlGjHZODw4rr8x4OZy83GcG3IDJXcvK1U7mLY2Vw8ArFhJ6Ki2w1I5QLjVCg81oh4EVaWv5G7V6DDg7PGDNvH01LhpFU6IdTiEV20yAgm87qSqHwGeXMSgls1_WX7A/s320/IMG_20190706_180405.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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6. Now it's done!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8lBFbi-JxJIV2iWzf8cJqy0xoTo3HW3YC63wRReeag2YKQCLhzb08EEUFClTvB1G8CRUkPptMv2AHaqbyomnsNH2gMFY9LVy6tBeiHHJoWR7kUaR7NVufOO6fXO6x6r4Cm0l749tX5I/s1600/IMG_20190706_181548.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8lBFbi-JxJIV2iWzf8cJqy0xoTo3HW3YC63wRReeag2YKQCLhzb08EEUFClTvB1G8CRUkPptMv2AHaqbyomnsNH2gMFY9LVy6tBeiHHJoWR7kUaR7NVufOO6fXO6x6r4Cm0l749tX5I/s400/IMG_20190706_181548.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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See the video of it being tested. I say pretty good and stable.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx6L7jqh94nyUrDTlja00SiN83bAmtC3m0vpCSpbf8LENrOKs2cgREFdgtp2yOA5dxu-lowDPWrqpTGisVhyg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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I have to say.. it looked pretty neat and compact. I guess next is I'm going to learn some more voodoo electronics to control the current as well and work on a display for the power source. This will take time since I just do this for hobby.<br />
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<b>Conclusion: Enough about my gizmos. Let's talk about me.</b><br />
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I guess I'll part with some wise words. Been all flowery and technical but here you go.<br />
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I have been pursuing my passion and I think passion is what keeps me going. I've been through the rat race and getting myself a bit of that corporate ladder climbing and it turns me off. The corporate world is full of people wanting to be in control that they have to require you to be monitored like some chump. So I said - I don't want to be that guy.<br />
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During the days of my dreary office dawdles in 2015, an ever-in-torpor me was approached by a friend asking for some help with electronics (just some simple transistor circuits). I obliged. I immediately came to life (was nearly going to sleep in my small bedding under my table due to the freezing temperatures of corporate air-cond) when I had to figure out the circuit. It's because of the passion I have developed - I again was reminded of my actual passion... and perhaps calling.<br />
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Symbolically, I happened on a comic strip around the same time by <a href="https://zenpencils.com/comic/150-jim-henson-a-puppeteers-advice/">Gavin in Zen Pencils</a>. It sparked something in me and the rest is history. And the number of Gavin's entry was a nice round 150. I'm not sure how things will turn out yet in my life, but I know one thing: I've never regretted not being back being somebody's lackey.<br />
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So my message to everyone: Pursuing your passion is hard because you need to be really brave and challenge conventions all the time. Why? Because you'll be going against the grain of well-established routes, the road less traveled.<br />
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Ever saw a holiday ad? Go to some well-established place, with a tour guide, get to some hotel with kinda okay food, go around at perhaps marvel at a thing or two, buy a trinket saying you've been there. But deep down you knew it: the place was well prepared for people like you, who wanted some novelty in life when you're on some escapade - but not too much novelty. And it has morphed into some junk food holiday scene where it'll serve more people to come. <a href="https://www.buzzfeed.com/arielbardi/what-has-3-idiots-done-to-ladakh">That's what happened to Ladakh</a>, if you've watched the Three Idiots: junk holidays.<br />
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It's different than making up your own mind of what you want to see in life. Ever traveled somewhere and saw a beautiful spot? Or a mysterious road which looked nice? Why not go there? Sure, it might not be what you like. But what if you liked what you discovered?<br />
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I've been traveling where the wind takes me when I do. And I'm no hippie. I believe in structure against chaos. And out of 10 places I randomly go, I find 2 or 3 places I'm pleasantly surprised to discover. Five might not be to my liking. The other two would be like meh.<br />
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For all this, you'd have to be willing to insist to travel more. You'd be saying like, "I want to see that field". And your partner might say, "No.. that doesn't look good". But this can be introspective. You don't have to travel if it's not your cup of tea. Travel your own universe, if you like it. It'll give you perspective and you'll appreciate life more. You'll think more. You'll see more about what you want to be when you're given the time to think. <b>It is only when the flame stays still that it illuminates</b>. You want true stillness to illuminate your life? Be away from your comfort zones. Figuratively and literally.<br />
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It will be anything but conventional, I promise you.<br />
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Which brings me to my last point. Pursuing your passion means you have to develop a tenacity towards things you believe in, and that requires you to be assertive and appear to be sometimes offensive. But if you believe in what you're is is ultimately meaningful, then by all means pursue the goal, and take responsibility.<br />
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If you do this ultimately to take control of your life as a liberated person, and ultimately serve God, you are already successful. Nothing else matters from there.<br />
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Thank you for anyone reading this. I've summarized perhaps a good five years of my life here.<br />
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Vizier87</div>
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Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-47812233587494409382018-10-16T12:02:00.002+08:002018-10-16T12:02:51.513+08:00Small plastic bags make great gloves.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Hi guys.</div>
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Most people throw away the small plastic bags after buying some small dry stuff. Or dry food. Or some plastic stuff.</div>
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It so happens I use a lot of <a href="https://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a>. I still do for my projects.</div>
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Aaaaand I like folding plastic bags like shown below. It's therapeutic. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5i5c5J1GQNwesUzPLXTewYWOFDgNyqDhYLk23pv53ARYljV5EFHIQ2AU-DWV8bZw2taqm-i7xXir28OcqC4wC4NSEgwMdoldE_vh1Hfl2AoZfRkmLI3sxBDmdNhjqFZ3Dc9BmoVNsYE/s1600/Plastic+bags+as+gloves.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1272" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5i5c5J1GQNwesUzPLXTewYWOFDgNyqDhYLk23pv53ARYljV5EFHIQ2AU-DWV8bZw2taqm-i7xXir28OcqC4wC4NSEgwMdoldE_vh1Hfl2AoZfRkmLI3sxBDmdNhjqFZ3Dc9BmoVNsYE/s640/Plastic+bags+as+gloves.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Save money on gloves, and reuse your tiny plastic bags.</div>
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This'll be really important when you're using glue. Especially acrylic types. Yech.</div>
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One of the problems is maintaining the position, so you can opt for rubber bands to keep it on your wrists.</div>
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What else can I say? You'll figure out the rest on your own.</div>
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Adios,</div>
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Vizier87.</div>
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Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-11672481282522262312017-01-23T11:12:00.001+08:002017-01-23T11:12:19.794+08:00Reader Beware: A completely long-winded USB-socket story<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi guys,</div>
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I know, I know. We're getting lazy.</div>
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Lemme put out something pretty insignificant, but I think is pretty interesting anyway.</div>
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<b>Story tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiime</b> (James Hetfield voice, while stretching the mouth to the ends of the face at the "ime" part, and a chugging riff). Well, to point out the obvious, with the era of smartphones, you would know why we don't use those bulky and sticky and nasty blocks of plastics anymore for our road navigation when finding out you're running out of gas in some small town... not knowing where the gas station is. After the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.my/2014/02/a-diy-car-usb-charger-autobattrion.html">Autobattrion</a> project, my charger which had a Mini-B USB socket, used for charging the said GPS device was not used for a long time. To you chumps out there here's a USB guide from <a href="http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=26">MyCableMart.com</a>:</div>
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<a href="http://www.mycablemart.com/images/usb_connectors_20_30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://www.mycablemart.com/images/usb_connectors_20_30.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I am not gonna cut the wires to the original charger to fit a Mini-B to a Micro-B type. I just don't like being invasive. This means I'll have to use an adapter, both female. But I hate buying it at <a href="https://www.amazon.com/USB-Female-Mini-Adapter/dp/B00474R7HO">5 bucks apiece or more</a>. So I went to a store in <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/dir/''/Nixie+Electronics+(M)+Sdn+Bhd/data=!4m5!4m4!1m0!1m2!1m1!1s0x31cc36240f6e9c1b:0x3beb9b79b3d407d9?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjtttPrmdfRAhWGpo8KHTuDAHwQ9RcIajAL">Jalan Landak, KL</a> during my lone ventures into the world of electronics and bought a Mini-B receptacle for 80 cents (≈0.18 USD as of the date of this article). Pretty close to free.</div>
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After three months, one night, I was feeling kinda "floaty". I don't have the mood to read my usual books after dinner, so I sat on my project bench and found the socket. Fishing around for a standard Type-A female receptacle, I came across an old Type-A to Mini-DIN6, used to fit the Stone-Age keyboards. Here's how it looks generally (image from <a href="http://superuser.com/questions/310455/female-usb-to-male-ps-2-mini-din-6-adapter">Superuser</a>):</div>
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I was already imagining all the ripping apart for the pin-exposing and all the eye-squinting for the precise soldering required and felt pretty much yep, this is gonna be a piece of work, let's put that one off. But then I remembered scribbling something about the DIN-6 pinouts and fished out my old logbook and voila! I found the pinouts - without internet connection. Here's the pinouts for both Mini-B and a DIN6 connector:</div>
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<a href="http://www.sunrom.com/media/content/746/USB-Mini-B-Pinout.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.sunrom.com/media/content/746/USB-Mini-B-Pinout.gif" height="259" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://camo.githubusercontent.com/c6469277d8b814b9cc03a3a34d57d6a3289c5c70/687474703a2f2f7777772e62657461617263686976652e636f6d2f696d61676575706c6f61642f323031322d30322f313332393637373138332e6f722e32343435372e706e67" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://camo.githubusercontent.com/c6469277d8b814b9cc03a3a34d57d6a3289c5c70/687474703a2f2f7777772e62657461617263686976652e636f6d2f696d61676575706c6f61642f323031322d30322f313332393637373138332e6f722e32343435372e706e67" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now, those pictures may look like whatever. But if you look closely, notice that a small Mini-B has both +5V and GND pins on both leftmost and rightmost sides, as also can be seen from the 6-pin DIN connector. "So what? You've saved the world with this info?!!", you might say. It might not. but you'll save 5 bucks or more. Why not? Anyway, let's quit goofing around. What does this mean? Well, it turns out to be pretty convenient. <b>It means both connectors can be aligned pretty neatly with minimal soldering</b>. No wires. The rest is pretty straightforward. </div>
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Let the picture speak for itself:</div>
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1st picture: For starters, remove the metal shield on the DIN socket, to reveal the pins. I clipped the other pins, leaving only +5V and GND. Then solder the pins together according to the pinouts mentioned above. I just have to bend the USB pins a bit to nearly reach the DIN pins but as you can see, the soldering did the rest.</div>
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2nd picture: Then, aesthetics is important. I wrapped tape to form a cylinder around the insulation and "poured" epoxy into the "mold" if you like. Now it looks pretty close to a standard <a href="https://www.amazon.com/USB-Female-Mini-Adapter/dp/B00474R7HO">Female-to-female Type-A-to-Mini-B</a>, right? </div>
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3rd picture: Well, it worked well. I colored the dried epoxy finish with a permanent marker. Now no one'll know it's homemade. *Evil laugh*. Go on guys, laugh with me.... OK I know that's lame.</div>
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Anyway, now you know! Don't say I didn't warn you about how pedantic I can get.</div>
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Vizier87.</div>
<br />Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-54309555076896877262014-02-01T09:24:00.000+08:002014-02-04T09:59:50.311+08:00A DIY Car USB Charger: AutobattrionSalam'alaikum everyone,<br />
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I was walking around in a shopping mall (I don't like those glitzy shopping malls at all for the record, they're noisy and our country is mushrooming with 'em. What, like you don't have enough things to buy already? Okay I'll quit before it gets off-tangent, but <a href="http://www.readersdigest.co.in/are-malls-our-new-temples">this article</a> sums up quite a bit about my opinion on them. Haha.) And you know what? A simple USB car charger costs RM30! I know places where they sell it for RM5 apiece, but the point is, I prefer not buying them for the quality they give. And I'll certainly shan't fish out three red notes to pay for such a kiddie item.<br />
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Anyway. The interwebs got lots of projects like these, like:<br />
-<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/USB-Car-Charger-2/">Instructables</a>: A good-ish instructable, with lots of feedback. I'd have to say the comments helped a lot.<br />
-<a href="http://jalopnik.com/5889554/how-to-make-a-quick-and-dirty-emergency-usb+to+cigarette-lighter-socket">Jason Jalopnik</a>: A project with really nice pictures, and easy for electronics beginners.<br />
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Why build my own? Well, I had stuff lying around (my sister's old Nokia 3310 battery charger, kaput, I just need to build on what's inside) and I think it is much more... monumental, building things which you use rather than buying them. I think the reason people throw Scandinavian furniture away every other day is because it is too easy to acquire. Well.. *snap* to the apartment guys.<br />
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How does it work? For the layman, what you're getting from your car where you plug in your cigarette lighter is basically the battery power which powers up a resistive element in the lighter. So electrical energy is converted into heat, and voila. Be careful with car batteries, they potentially can shock anybody if mishandled. If you're not sure how to do it, then ask someone who knows them. This is how I'd visualize it:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxuOj3Hw58qzQnG6hdUFEOm8bRGk_Lcxg8EzPdqMKPCitL0mMAxnRE93qWinK2yPdcYMdHH-Ur_gRYFzV-h2tIW8IjZvZzKAXlAmVBHzbVH53opOaUCMUaBUEWRAiBQo7rcZzlgsOhis/s1600/Socket.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxuOj3Hw58qzQnG6hdUFEOm8bRGk_Lcxg8EzPdqMKPCitL0mMAxnRE93qWinK2yPdcYMdHH-Ur_gRYFzV-h2tIW8IjZvZzKAXlAmVBHzbVH53opOaUCMUaBUEWRAiBQo7rcZzlgsOhis/s1600/Socket.png" height="364" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Figure 1: What actually that hole in your car is all about.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Now we proceed to the small stuff. I got a <a href="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua7805.pdf">UA7805</a>, which is a sample from Texas Instruments, so it's free. (Thank you TI's Thief River Falls guys!) It will regulate the voltage from the car socket output's 12V to 5V. The rest is pretty basic; indeed that's all you need. But I wouldn't mind adding some small stuff since I got them anyway. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Next, you'd need a USB female socket. Duh. I'd like to note that since most of us use smartphones, and the adapters for charging are most likely micro-b type (Refer <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Types-usb_th1.svg">here</a> for more detail). However, since most of us have the [Type-A]-to-[Type-<i>whatever</i>] adapters, it would be more practical for us to have a more universal socket, like Type A.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig29iTf2NGG8KEzxbOOlX3NP00y4lF0bKuCpAa933xtGqy6XlO3NnMmQVnWptAyW_bhAxwYdWnSnlU9lIrGFcLGTKMvl8tSnCXy1V0QJI5rEnODag4WqaGO3OUGjfGVjb3RF1jMmTfQzY/s1600/USB.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig29iTf2NGG8KEzxbOOlX3NP00y4lF0bKuCpAa933xtGqy6XlO3NnMmQVnWptAyW_bhAxwYdWnSnlU9lIrGFcLGTKMvl8tSnCXy1V0QJI5rEnODag4WqaGO3OUGjfGVjb3RF1jMmTfQzY/s1600/USB.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Figure 2: USB socket</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Notice the keyboard buttons? I'm using it as a housing for the socket. I suppose the <a href="http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2014-01-09/pc-shipments-drop-6-9-percent-in-weak-holiday-shopping.html">decline on using PCs</a> nowadays has greatly contributed to unwanted keyboards, and I'd have to say they are <b>super</b> useful to make a lot of things. You'll just need to use a standard cutting knife to cut the shape so that the socket can fit snugly between the pieces. You'll see it later.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The next step is to assemble everything according to the schematic. I'm just posting the schematic for fun using Paint guys, so don't bash me if it lacks the supreme Altium-ish look.</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcBeZT3VK5Y1k6uj7kOuM4QEUtwxR-cfj8kbBLrdY-5mqnwZMUSqIFehue1Bs8PgQCh7R4LtvIhxRr1tfCTvsNq-nUYz1QwNZIEFcyd94snOgbQtsAnwD5lRM4QOa40vbokGNeoOOUBE/s1600/AutoCircuit.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcBeZT3VK5Y1k6uj7kOuM4QEUtwxR-cfj8kbBLrdY-5mqnwZMUSqIFehue1Bs8PgQCh7R4LtvIhxRr1tfCTvsNq-nUYz1QwNZIEFcyd94snOgbQtsAnwD5lRM4QOa40vbokGNeoOOUBE/s1600/AutoCircuit.png" height="270" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Figure 3: Circuit for the charger, which is just really a simple voltage regulation schematic with more color on it. That's all.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">A bit of elaboration needed here. Ahem. The data terminals 2 & 3 (D- and D+) of the USB socket <a href="http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs/batt_charging_1_1.zip">need to be shorted</a> for it to act as a charger. Also, I added a Schottky Diode in series with the 5V output. This will thwart the reverse power leak to the circuitry from the phone's battery. I experienced that when I plugged in my GPS device to a similar charger. It turned flat within minutes! So, something to learn here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here's a picture of my assembled Autobattrion (fancy name just for fun, no need to take it seriously guys):</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOsCJezdGrMc4qb5Y_89O4-PeCw0mIzgiPlaHmYo-6kaSHAspB2QufsD0WdVk9x89AIVrYnRddKYM4Sznlh9j1kzAxOiuJkbCe9I6ejH0oTQvR-7Vvq1uzu65FwDb_V_BYydDudzEI5Y/s1600/WP_20140123_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOsCJezdGrMc4qb5Y_89O4-PeCw0mIzgiPlaHmYo-6kaSHAspB2QufsD0WdVk9x89AIVrYnRddKYM4Sznlh9j1kzAxOiuJkbCe9I6ejH0oTQvR-7Vvq1uzu65FwDb_V_BYydDudzEI5Y/s1600/WP_20140123_001.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Figure 4: Look at the perfboard, and you'd know how DIY-ish this looks.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I tested the charging by hooking up the charger to a power supply in home:</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1NlMbmd9eDQFeuXTnpA9qVW1PTpr_JdSus7iMixfoXvYKB_pP7WKonE_A7zV3px_ib8sb1p6kXchzjRcWovywtj4Iz74UWaKurAOHTSe6327CXOHFPktPacOJpWGBV2__fmHio8UcEI/s1600/WP_20140123_008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1NlMbmd9eDQFeuXTnpA9qVW1PTpr_JdSus7iMixfoXvYKB_pP7WKonE_A7zV3px_ib8sb1p6kXchzjRcWovywtj4Iz74UWaKurAOHTSe6327CXOHFPktPacOJpWGBV2__fmHio8UcEI/s1600/WP_20140123_008.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Figure 5: Powering up the charger with <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-mark_24.html">Phaserion</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The USB socket is finished as follows:</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLknW5QwaJD-O3nQBhCVPHxDZ2RILK9VBvTwGn_ezlJlhmAG_EY7aa8vera74tagzZ_fdeklVtLf9lpDHbHmbcMKaHtkG04RbIfyJ3WBwBqaPZv5RJqQ6mfPL5g2n7eDUK0k0spr7Z8hI/s1600/Socket.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLknW5QwaJD-O3nQBhCVPHxDZ2RILK9VBvTwGn_ezlJlhmAG_EY7aa8vera74tagzZ_fdeklVtLf9lpDHbHmbcMKaHtkG04RbIfyJ3WBwBqaPZv5RJqQ6mfPL5g2n7eDUK0k0spr7Z8hI/s1600/Socket.png" height="640" width="371" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Figure 6: Clamped both keyboard button to encase the USB socket, a splash of Epoxy Glue, and a dash of black paint.</td></tr>
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The charging in my own car went well. Alhamdulillah.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidpmToXustWT2P-SGWn4aHozW9Wq0kdmyCZ7BUi86fZ9A4cEuMEljVoSoRSnU8rLjhl-yzm-mVQD5rfXuztuK0QN8OY3e7dhTNrStSjZwqYd3CTDgs5FTgT_TSVDO2S8KuHbvoG_2MQl0/s1600/WP_20140125_005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidpmToXustWT2P-SGWn4aHozW9Wq0kdmyCZ7BUi86fZ9A4cEuMEljVoSoRSnU8rLjhl-yzm-mVQD5rfXuztuK0QN8OY3e7dhTNrStSjZwqYd3CTDgs5FTgT_TSVDO2S8KuHbvoG_2MQl0/s1600/WP_20140125_005.jpg" height="320" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7: Charging.....</td></tr>
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So in conclusion, I built this charger for practically zero bucks within two man-hours. I call this AutoBattrion, so that I don't have to say "I built a DIY-USB-Car-Charger". Instead I'll just say, "Hey guys, AutoBattrion." Hehe.<br />
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Well thanks for reading and hope you guys don't mind my rambling! Keep your money for charity instead of buying unnecessary things. InsyaAllah.<br />
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Vizier87.</div>
Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-21221883047939769002013-09-25T11:21:00.000+08:002013-09-25T11:21:37.775+08:00'Famous Vortellica'<div align="JUSTIFY" style="widows: 8;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Assalamualaikum
wbt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Good
day people.. I don't know exactly what make me busy until I didn't
update this '<b>memories remain</b>' blog for years. When come back to face this
blog, feel like I'm in a <b>trash metal band</b> named "Vortex
Electrica" with <b>albums titled</b> "Blog Post". Since long time having their <b>tour </b>'electronic project'<b> </b>and<b> last concert</b> "Final Year
Project" together in 2010, all band members kind of busy
with their life.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiawNjEX0yZBcj4FFIbZ6yGlz8OvJCeDiRbQ9Bpqat1y6qmdxLQKud46dX0nnH643ypUmrXUNI7dg2TPy_0DeWrsaRt-JxfFSLWoRimBV8bwt_FnQZS9z43R5R2oPoo_OyW1WAmsKuDNLg7/s1600/vortex+album.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiawNjEX0yZBcj4FFIbZ6yGlz8OvJCeDiRbQ9Bpqat1y6qmdxLQKud46dX0nnH643ypUmrXUNI7dg2TPy_0DeWrsaRt-JxfFSLWoRimBV8bwt_FnQZS9z43R5R2oPoo_OyW1WAmsKuDNLg7/s320/vortex+album.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Some
of band members are doing their own concert ,while the Lars Ulrich-Vizier still
active inside the band. Thanks Vizier, the one who keep this '</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>famous
Vortellica</b></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">' band exist
until today while our beloved drummer Fakhruddin now move on to world
stage in US. We believed his soul still with the band.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">I
never stop doing my solo concert since the last concert even though
I'm not creating new album with my bandmate. Currently I'm releasing
new album with new band named </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>"<a href="http://artofmecha.blogspot.com/">artofmecha</a>"</b></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">.
The reason for this album released outside Vortellica is it only concentrating on specific material which
are mecha robot. It consume too big space to place the mecha material
in Vortellica's album. However some of the general material
from that nu-band will be presented inside Vortellica next album.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Past 3 years, each band member improve their skill to the higher level on
mastering their own instruments. The ability to produce new song
and album should be better than the old days I believe. Really hope that there will be a <b>comeback album</b> with the old band members one day. Pray for it to be happen soon.... <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/03/vortex-electrica-dominion.html">Vortex Electrica Dominion</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">-Shahril</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Controller & Sensor Department of Vortex Electrica</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">2013 </span>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10576141431716652699noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-71337414067140932002013-09-22T19:05:00.000+08:002013-10-21T11:47:40.001+08:00An update on Phaserion & Variator: After three years...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Assalamu'alaikum everyone,</div>
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It has been a slow year for all of us are busier than ever. However, we're still burning with project ideas. On my side, I have just setup my small working area and I have been using the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-mark_24.html">Phaserion</a> & <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-wall.html">Variator</a> for three years. (It has been that long? Whoa!).</div>
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This time, I'm going to provide some updates on Phaserion, which I think is a very handy equipment I have built all these years. It is an adjustable power supply with a range of 1.5-22V, and I have been using it for just about everything for my electronics projects. </div>
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This is a video of the addition I made for the Phaserion:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwRmeS1mj4l1EwjCWjE_B-4HthbC18UwTnDP_MGnXEcL7N7CumLKfSC2rD7ShTmT9kYPK-1pPlfZoGKIex-aw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Variator with a shiny new display</div>
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The feature addition on the Phaserion is pretty important- I added a 7-segment display to indicate the voltage, which is helpful if you have various projects with different supply requirements. The PIC used was the ever-so-simple PIC16F876 (Which I first bought after looking into Nigel's tutorials) and I think it is high time it is permanently embedded into a proper application gizmo for all that I've learnt from Microchip's PICs. We'll have a small tutorial on the 7-segment later, in which the programming was done using MikroC. (I don't think I could have progressed well in my programming if I'm stuck to Assembly language. No hard feelings there Uncle Nigel.). Here's the additional circuit:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Dnxp9rjgzM7eleD7AhYrUQhAlI6147v-HIJNFIweV51wsFUjoZxjow5mbihozFQ9AW8uYG4sDUv1K_VnUVhw7-Xm6VfZpF3RAt37QDqP7AIO21WPze7ilbjXxSMSpLAkw4FY19mIzXw/s1600/3rd.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Dnxp9rjgzM7eleD7AhYrUQhAlI6147v-HIJNFIweV51wsFUjoZxjow5mbihozFQ9AW8uYG4sDUv1K_VnUVhw7-Xm6VfZpF3RAt37QDqP7AIO21WPze7ilbjXxSMSpLAkw4FY19mIzXw/s320/3rd.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A bit of a stumbling block here- How do I detect 22V when PIC is capable only up to around 5V? The answer is simple: A trimpot. Install a trimmer between the output power, and let it swing to it's maximum output. After doing so, slowly tune your pot to give a 5V output. Therefore the output is now 22V <b>Ξ</b> 5V. Swing your voltage down. It will rescale to a lower voltage! </div>
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Some of the pictures may speak a squillion words:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaLiaBRxIJvaZh806CSeAEsG65C751mWJiPRWFrsaXz8iSc9lHpv9xnHun8JeuGwXMia_lBi5gltR-C1luoLLpsblrQ4ECGc9PFbWJknoJZY_HEYmvbkdMAv3WUvvMzMDY5Ok_aMkWvPo/s1600/DSC01328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaLiaBRxIJvaZh806CSeAEsG65C751mWJiPRWFrsaXz8iSc9lHpv9xnHun8JeuGwXMia_lBi5gltR-C1luoLLpsblrQ4ECGc9PFbWJknoJZY_HEYmvbkdMAv3WUvvMzMDY5Ok_aMkWvPo/s200/DSC01328.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlpcPKg9CATNQLrR3n5z0mIGjWbarhcNB0FZx9iq3s2c_8AMi-zQrZMlMVVxxCYYvAHbm24hczQaUXdt5EVeWsyk3L8o9Ek-gLzRMGPCtE_gH6Nytt_0lQ13TKdl-GNeoigMYB-oOA4L4/s1600/DSC01329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlpcPKg9CATNQLrR3n5z0mIGjWbarhcNB0FZx9iq3s2c_8AMi-zQrZMlMVVxxCYYvAHbm24hczQaUXdt5EVeWsyk3L8o9Ek-gLzRMGPCtE_gH6Nytt_0lQ13TKdl-GNeoigMYB-oOA4L4/s200/DSC01329.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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You can see that black-and-white trimmer/trimpot (bought when I was shopping with <a href="http://artofmecha.blogspot.com/">Beautifulmind</a> seven years ago, you know!) for scaling down 22V maximum swing to a 5V maximum swing... that'll be for the PIC.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHcghlFSrmD3DVPCyqfGo4j_93aTEV9ljvPz69yb2MuiPXOOU6pHXhylCQnHbE6AbzLuP4l3x5l1LzJB5MOidyqX1kwS1zlQXWVOT7Cpd4f0892sAhqxX81D0wCiLJO2VUS5HSdKhTdU/s1600/DSC01332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHcghlFSrmD3DVPCyqfGo4j_93aTEV9ljvPz69yb2MuiPXOOU6pHXhylCQnHbE6AbzLuP4l3x5l1LzJB5MOidyqX1kwS1zlQXWVOT7Cpd4f0892sAhqxX81D0wCiLJO2VUS5HSdKhTdU/s320/DSC01332.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Phaserion adapted for my Starke drill batteries' charging</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2i90HAn_pf8iqK9Wscmc65iWZj-U2DvxVi6khvf-5MxzsjRhpp4JCudxEFklAJnQloq5wMWrH_Yuo_ukJq7-_649kdvqVXTUGZRYcKWhe0MUkVonAuX_HqpzxC8Pka6mABYw8y9BDarM/s1600/DSC01333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2i90HAn_pf8iqK9Wscmc65iWZj-U2DvxVi6khvf-5MxzsjRhpp4JCudxEFklAJnQloq5wMWrH_Yuo_ukJq7-_649kdvqVXTUGZRYcKWhe0MUkVonAuX_HqpzxC8Pka6mABYw8y9BDarM/s320/DSC01333.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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...and it can be used for my breadboard supply</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeqy9HPTBdfIiGdubUHymMuxD0HB0ZfPwJAh6M7A1rWmXy_4JgnXn7YNtnwujPzlwH5yM43eHuL3Po7OV_REnJqfusm0rQH_mF62U9a5jSOzNsbvpJJCBje6JjMcGVFfDojMVm_A462g/s1600/DSC01335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPeqy9HPTBdfIiGdubUHymMuxD0HB0ZfPwJAh6M7A1rWmXy_4JgnXn7YNtnwujPzlwH5yM43eHuL3Po7OV_REnJqfusm0rQH_mF62U9a5jSOzNsbvpJJCBje6JjMcGVFfDojMVm_A462g/s320/DSC01335.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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...Yup. I used my old Chinese multimeter terminals for an in-situ power supply (good for testing nook-in-the-crannies)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10LviDsm4DB2inC3BhDyePqd1B-ETbSxeLq1J0MQ3RrfVU-gUPXntwW2psboh5KNFHjTjzlQZGm1C0EoUCdVZyHw5We5rMzzJyL2iU9Xbdpj_53CY0ICeXAXYefOj8qa3yukHA-wWcew/s1600/DSC01336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10LviDsm4DB2inC3BhDyePqd1B-ETbSxeLq1J0MQ3RrfVU-gUPXntwW2psboh5KNFHjTjzlQZGm1C0EoUCdVZyHw5We5rMzzJyL2iU9Xbdpj_53CY0ICeXAXYefOj8qa3yukHA-wWcew/s320/DSC01336.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Adapted for crocodile clips as well (Just for show dudes)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5YiPSz8l0UBf7e_jzBuMbtyrubc4gX9SF_xgGCnRConOPkKM1QDFd8wwsv3nnZb6QxoTnRIpzrbgWrzNP_sKnNDn57UcNRZnN7U8e-fd_cob-VacWMI4Rt6ImdFlQYnUvGE2acZsFG0/s1600/DSC01337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5YiPSz8l0UBf7e_jzBuMbtyrubc4gX9SF_xgGCnRConOPkKM1QDFd8wwsv3nnZb6QxoTnRIpzrbgWrzNP_sKnNDn57UcNRZnN7U8e-fd_cob-VacWMI4Rt6ImdFlQYnUvGE2acZsFG0/s320/DSC01337.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And since we have so many cables, a good way to organize them would be to use small cardboard cylinders to store 'em cables. Trust me, a good working space is a TIDY one.</div>
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So that's all for this article. The circuit addition is pretty simple but we'll cover that later in more detail when the 7-segment tutorial is done.</div>
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Keep on Vortexifying everyone! </div>
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Regards,</div>
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Vizier87.</div>
<br />Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-11971566475885607832012-10-21T01:03:00.001+08:002013-10-18T14:40:19.317+08:00A comparison between quality of ADCs: Texas Instruments' ADS1100 16-bit and Microchip's 10-bit ADC<div style="text-align: center;">
بسم الله الحمدلله والصلوة والسلام على رسول الله</div>
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Salam'alaikum guys.<br />
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I have collected an incredible amount of documentation for this blog's material to make more articles, but I'll release it slowly, insyaAllah. </div>
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So, as per the title, you may wonder if this is really hobbyist stuff. As a Microchip user, I had a lot of problem using only 10 bits for my ADC, when the last (10th) bit is usually not very useful anyway since it fluctuates a lot due to electrical noise. Now, I'm not going into how ADCs work, since this article will be for faithful PIC users. And just for the record, I'm a PIC fan, and I'm not telling people to criticize Microchip for their features. This is just a not-your-average-academic report on performance comparison.</div>
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I obtained a lot of samples from Texas Instruments, therefore I feel that I could express my gratitude by putting this report out. Thanks to all the staff who handled the shipping of TI's products, from Thief River Falls. The ADC of our concern will be primarily by TI, the <a href="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ads1100.pdf">ADS1100</a>. This chip has 15-bit code output for single ended inputs, communication using I2C, self calibrating, low power consumption, and awesome. The other one will be from PIC184620F's hardware ADC, which is similar for most PIC hardware ADCs.<br />
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The one I received is mounted (or wire-bonded) like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRywvCY5ocUfAr_vp4lJ8iLQqhimrd-blSDkhZVDTF_ez2KNJUh9hsm_alDVYMA_0nTWax3E63SJmAz6AIg-kB6bgCqo9ko_vWXBiivwlTOywuBDu-p4ogtZjAajozOOqV21vU-2FCnI/s1600/DSC01249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRywvCY5ocUfAr_vp4lJ8iLQqhimrd-blSDkhZVDTF_ez2KNJUh9hsm_alDVYMA_0nTWax3E63SJmAz6AIg-kB6bgCqo9ko_vWXBiivwlTOywuBDu-p4ogtZjAajozOOqV21vU-2FCnI/s320/DSC01249.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Figure 1: ADS1100 mounted for 2.54mm receptacles</div>
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The chip is an SOT-223 package, a bit small but possible to be mounted on a perfboard. A bit of soldering expertise required but not an issue here. It'll be easier to connect to the main board after you've finished. It's quite easy to solder on a PCB too.<br />
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This is perhaps just a simple ADS1100 tutorial:</div>
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1. Setup the circuit as shown below: (Remember to add a pull-up resistor for SDA and SCL.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7fyvq_IFr1KhyphenhyphentGCTZ2b2YPYOQkMigHyNFU1GJt9Qn6ir_LcMyy_EUAVJnFs7EP-xq4xB8eeMn_x-ACnfrs3CVj5CUiIiqUujEYT5CKsWOzwPVbNmsI2jjBC_IHbLlLePepEZ-y5sHS4/s1600/ADS1100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7fyvq_IFr1KhyphenhyphentGCTZ2b2YPYOQkMigHyNFU1GJt9Qn6ir_LcMyy_EUAVJnFs7EP-xq4xB8eeMn_x-ACnfrs3CVj5CUiIiqUujEYT5CKsWOzwPVbNmsI2jjBC_IHbLlLePepEZ-y5sHS4/s320/ADS1100.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Figure 2: Single-ended input for ADS1100 (From ADS1100 Datasheet)</div>
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2. Connect SCL and SDA to your microcontroller (I'm using Microchip's PIC... they're still cool). You can choose either a hardware or software I2C, but sometimes because of design limitations, a software I2C is much more practical. You need a quick intro into I2C and try to write your own I2C software , but nowadays you can cut to the chase and use libraries which are supported by microcontroller compilers. MikroC is one of those.</div>
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The code will be something like this (using MikroC):</div>
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///////////////////////////////////////////</div>
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Soft_I2C_Init(); // Software SPI initializing.</div>
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Soft_I2C_Start(); // a. Initiate a start </div>
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Soft_I2C_Write(0x90); // b. Sends address to ADS1100 at 0x90. Refer datasheet at address section. </div>
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Soft_I2C_Write(0x8c); // c. Default value (0x8c) to be written to the chip. Refer datasheet for more.</div>
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Soft_I2C_Stop(); // d: Stop signal</div>
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///////////////////////////////////////////</div>
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After receiving these commands, the ADS1100 performs conversion and stores them inside its register, with a value from D14 to D00. One bit is lost due to this configuration (can't be helped, there's an extra measure you can take to recover the lost bit as pointed out in the datasheet but 15 bits is enough for me)</div>
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3. Now you can retrieve the 15-bit code:</div>
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////////////////////////////////////////////////////// </div>
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Soft_I2C_Start(); // Start software I2C</div>
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Soft_I2C_Write(0x91); // Write to threaten the ADC to send the data it's hiding. Gimme gimme!!</div>
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highbyte=Soft_I2C_Read(1); // Read the seven most significant bits (D14-D08), send an ACK </div>
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lowbyte=Soft_I2C_Read(0); // Read the remaining D07-D00 data bits, and send a NACK. </div>
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Soft_I2C_Stop(); // Stop or else you'll be desoldered. (just joking guys).</div>
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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////</div>
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Loop this code for a continuous reading, and send this data to the PIC's GPIO ports with LEDs to see the outputs, let's say portd=highbyte and portc=lowbyte. MikroC's software I2C is rated at 20kHz, which is sufficient for our demonstration. Later, we can manipulate these data for our use.</div>
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*********************************** End of tutorial **********************************</div>
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Comparing an ADC chip with an ADC hardware inside a microcontroller might be like comparing apples and oranges since the intended usage of ADCs varies from user to user, and people'll be like, "C'mon! One is 16-bit and the other 10-bit! That's unfair!" But for me, what is interesting is the <b>fluctuation of the least significant bit of both of these ADCs</b>, and we'll see that in a moment through this video: </div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/CQCrYVnxWs4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Video: ADS1100 demonstration </div>
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So in conclusion, we can see that the ADS1100 gives a much stabler output at a very precarious resolution (i.e. 5V/32767=0.00015V) compared to Microchip's 10-bit output (5V/1023=0.0045V) and we see a lot of noise going on there!<br />
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So that's it! If you want the code, please download it <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/view/?0t9k99fre09txo1">here</a>, which shows the output of both the ADS1100 and the hardware ADC output via an LCD display. It's a bit messy and I'm not an expert programmer, but hope it helps!</div>
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All the best to everyone.</div>
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Vizier87.</div>
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Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-13534246962288112962011-10-31T21:30:00.010+08:002011-11-01T20:33:46.719+08:00Wireless Infra Red(IR) TSOP Design Tutorial 2May the peace and mercy of Allah be with y'all.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">PART II : IR CARRIER PULSE</span><br /><br />You guys!We continue our journey in Infra Red (IR) communication in more practical approach. From the previous introduction article, IR pulse frequency play important role in determining the TSOP IR detection sensitivity level. How do we start?? Below is how we calculate the timing. Lets go!<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUj8VQITi3nbe84DOSNe1vljdmR1tix8jWpxrXbjT5bb3ADGVx4xjcmAtUqsJwvCnmPEAx2e_80HBqrBSFvrDZPnrb9iwWfEh3FXqhM1TIX3tAokzsw0gSp4cyzo3koB6XmFZk_5nPHU2K/s1600/robot+ir.PNG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 454px; height: 316px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUj8VQITi3nbe84DOSNe1vljdmR1tix8jWpxrXbjT5bb3ADGVx4xjcmAtUqsJwvCnmPEAx2e_80HBqrBSFvrDZPnrb9iwWfEh3FXqhM1TIX3tAokzsw0gSp4cyzo3koB6XmFZk_5nPHU2K/s400/robot+ir.PNG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669658055181480802" border="0" /></a>From the calculation above, we need to light on the IR LED for 12.5us and turn it off for 12.5us. This is for a period/cycle. Repeating this cycle will generate IR LED pulse oscillator of 40kHz!<br /><br />Go grab your Microcontroller (uC) or any IC that can generate pulse like we discussed. *I prefer uC as I can easily tune the frequency by modifying my code and not my hardware.<br /><br />Eg : Carrier pulse 40kHz using mikroC and PIC12F629(cute and small uC). We can't set 12.5us delay as the input <span style="font-weight: bold;">x</span> to the function delay_us(<span style="font-weight: bold;">x</span>) as <span style="font-weight: bold;">x</span> should be round integer and not floating number.<br /><br />While(1)<span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">//forever loop IR LED on and off producing oscillating pulse!</span><br />{<br />GPIO = 0xFF; <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">//IR LED on</span><br />delay_us(12); <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> //wait 12us</span><br />GPIO = 0x00; <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">//IR LED off</span><br />delay_us(13); <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">//wait 13us</span><br />}<br /><br />The actual result : Use oscilloscope to probe at output pins.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsY4aht91WUPWMqXSDeQRrr4a7rhFzenHw_-ecBT8sMTXT9-ipAp_W1Mpugvgo3RmCG8u-a_wXEMfJdnDZfUeKWpAl6ILh1gxyXFXHEVNtITPjLNsjHPsAcFEkQSb2XE3JRSmoT366g4gL/s1600/Picture+002.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsY4aht91WUPWMqXSDeQRrr4a7rhFzenHw_-ecBT8sMTXT9-ipAp_W1Mpugvgo3RmCG8u-a_wXEMfJdnDZfUeKWpAl6ILh1gxyXFXHEVNtITPjLNsjHPsAcFEkQSb2XE3JRSmoT366g4gL/s400/Picture+002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669660592140340130" border="0" /></a> On time(Delta) = 12.40us<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDqKD04_KRrzKbqely0WG8gdfZ2G4V6kUQTAn37f02okEZ0-fDS9GuLaBksQWxGJCJbC4rXXddge53R8E6olQ_ErWu8LSPGCZ1GHWvKiznBQJQMrLrDMC2itrOeYSb1SGfsY6w5KBmqxL/s1600/Picture+003.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXDqKD04_KRrzKbqely0WG8gdfZ2G4V6kUQTAn37f02okEZ0-fDS9GuLaBksQWxGJCJbC4rXXddge53R8E6olQ_ErWu8LSPGCZ1GHWvKiznBQJQMrLrDMC2itrOeYSb1SGfsY6w5KBmqxL/s400/Picture+003.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669660844172884898" border="0" /></a>Off time(Delta) = 12.01us<br /><br />Period/cycle = (on time + off time) = 24.41us ;<br />1/Period = frequency = 40.9668kHz(Good enough!)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXahuBjjJsM-rYiDEidDhbLYIY5clg3xk9QXB9npFuB4r61jdf1FqaTeG_vY1ez2s10xERnA6HRLoJV2vL9bVoqlW9bedDpksVm4-Lk-Q5-nOW6OdZLcW8u8JlExgcbQLVIzQP_vnToauw/s1600/ir_complete.PNG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 381px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXahuBjjJsM-rYiDEidDhbLYIY5clg3xk9QXB9npFuB4r61jdf1FqaTeG_vY1ez2s10xERnA6HRLoJV2vL9bVoqlW9bedDpksVm4-Lk-Q5-nOW6OdZLcW8u8JlExgcbQLVIzQP_vnToauw/s400/ir_complete.PNG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669661396368633122" border="0" /></a><br />Oscilloscope helps a lot. From my experience, when the frequency is not exactly at the right specification (error = +/-1kHz), the TSOP sensitivity decrease! Some cases, I need to place the IR LED extremely close to the TSOP receiver to make it detectable!!! (T^T). Please verify your frequency pulse generated. Don't 100% trust on the code you write(especially high level coding) for timing restriction coding unless you use assembly language with precise calculation.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNFvOAg10F_Lwvo0kvTsyigPqfE2TxfBhNZd35h_SEWHqFFEvjhzT_RoxsTx9BiuPX6vjZkWEth_HzRnNcCNgeEv2OXSAqlqKQ9eKLnx9f5myvFtFUCi8QG9cXLkaYRZiYTIVmqxIloiyB/s1600/dam+close.PNG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 480px; height: 387px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNFvOAg10F_Lwvo0kvTsyigPqfE2TxfBhNZd35h_SEWHqFFEvjhzT_RoxsTx9BiuPX6vjZkWEth_HzRnNcCNgeEv2OXSAqlqKQ9eKLnx9f5myvFtFUCi8QG9cXLkaYRZiYTIVmqxIloiyB/s400/dam+close.PNG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669662843826619170" border="0" /></a>I love that expression.. See ye in the next part.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/10/wireless-infraredir-design-tutorial-1.html">Wireless InfraRed(IR) Design Tutorial 1</a><br /></span></p> <p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/10/wireless-infraredir-design-tutorial-2.html"><span class="st">Wireless InfraRed(IR) Design Tutorial 2</span></a></p> </div></div><br /></div></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin91RpRMytog9OdQ2Xg93f1N8gFnnpCCErzFKq_mOxrsVqoC9zVxx2e9jMfyZbv5tQGfTMA-qdSgjAttGQiJW8passoqtTciz8o9QK0gzdgCfVoKoPo_7Tt-UVfGKP030DCKMSwbSoIAtC/s1600/robot+ir.PNG"><br /></a></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-41846108762354110742011-10-24T22:37:00.015+08:002011-11-01T20:34:15.049+08:00Wireless Infra Red (IR) TSOP Design Tutorial 1<span style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="st">May the peace and mercy of Allah be with you.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: rgb(204, 204, 204);">PART I</span> : </span><span style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="st">INTRODUCTION</span><span style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="st"><br /></span> <p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">More than a years I haven’t post any article in this be</span><span class="st">loved</span><span class="st"> knowledge-base blog! I miss vortex electrica so</span><span class="st"> much.OK! This time we talk about an idea on how to make a <span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">IR communication</span> from scratch! </span></p> <p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">Component: TSOP4840,TSAL6200(IR LED 940nm w</span><span class="st">avelength)</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3Ty2bAPU7yDgtA3HXHRAH1Hx5mUqtQCYvjvTeS-qJ8gxtsrLDOHS3r-8MFCyINfomg9zaDwCDAhJ9pXX_Sr6EE-a7llENV9Z8QlBxYxympfsVl2PYxFbjiVIip6z5-kLlJ6d8r_DFkvs/s1600/ir2.png"><br /></a><span class="st"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6X4A3Gn2nf3ENuG0HjOgUnYrxm7H-Fi4LTik5tAoSc_9iIQ4v5gordYms7geAJ3d1RTXlvtyrANqbyQFjWggR4_jOG8EUk5udgtPYnekG2cjq8PAoyzLxY-fgIubPXI9iyr8idpdFUr2/s1600/tsop+tsal.png"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 333px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6X4A3Gn2nf3ENuG0HjOgUnYrxm7H-Fi4LTik5tAoSc_9iIQ4v5gordYms7geAJ3d1RTXlvtyrANqbyQFjWggR4_jOG8EUk5udgtPYnekG2cjq8PAoyzLxY-fgIubPXI9iyr8idpdFUr2/s400/tsop+tsal.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667071200809189058" border="0" /></a></span></p><span style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);"> </span><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st"> I choose TSOP4840(use in my own project) as IR receiver. It was design to be used inside remote control(TV,DVD player..etc). When we know how to design it, we can implement it anywhere such as in robotic project. Below is the internal circui</span><span class="st">t of it.<span class="st"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgca55X0g8qzy8xD7E-4Xaf3ldJfxRQFnS1D-QPGj1JHBUmiEUxTm2ae5oSdBtKwZ-BBRqyjw026Hev2PstmvZ8kR9togA2oy5uhOT0zhGfDGrgLw-SCrSCDu4zqL4V4fnpDzCjawCbuxQV/s1600/Internal+TSOP.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 272px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgca55X0g8qzy8xD7E-4Xaf3ldJfxRQFnS1D-QPGj1JHBUmiEUxTm2ae5oSdBtKwZ-BBRqyjw026Hev2PstmvZ8kR9togA2oy5uhOT0zhGfDGrgLw-SCrSCDu4zqL4V4fnpDzCjawCbuxQV/s400/Internal+TSOP.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667073717029837170" border="0" /></a></span></span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:trackmoves/> <w:trackformatting/> 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<w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="33" semihidden="false" unhidewhenused="false" qformat="true" name="Book Title"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="37" name="Bibliography"> <w:lsdexception locked="false" priority="39" qformat="true" name="TOC Heading"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> </p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">From the block diagram above, we can see the internal circuitry of the TSOP48XX. Band Pass filter is the most important part where it can filter out the noise from ambient IR wave.</span><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">*TSOP48</span><u>40</u><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> (40 = 40kHz bandpass filter,38 = 38kHz,52,36) . </span></p> <p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">What the bandpass filter do???? it reject any light which have frequency other than 40khz. In non-technical way represented as cartoon below. (^^)</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3Ty2bAPU7yDgtA3HXHRAH1Hx5mUqtQCYvjvTeS-qJ8gxtsrLDOHS3r-8MFCyINfomg9zaDwCDAhJ9pXX_Sr6EE-a7llENV9Z8QlBxYxympfsVl2PYxFbjiVIip6z5-kLlJ6d8r_DFkvs/s1600/ir2.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 337px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3Ty2bAPU7yDgtA3HXHRAH1Hx5mUqtQCYvjvTeS-qJ8gxtsrLDOHS3r-8MFCyINfomg9zaDwCDAhJ9pXX_Sr6EE-a7llENV9Z8QlBxYxympfsVl2PYxFbjiVIip6z5-kLlJ6d8r_DFkvs/s400/ir2.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667074554632032818" border="0" /></a></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">You can read the pins assignment from TSOP4840 datasheet,the circuit for the receiver shown as below/datasheet:application_circuit.</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oK7vDFXtVGyncILzdte9Bf5LHUG2TXjDeGeW7jnQZpAVYYmmsDbV6hw0cZjgeLmN1SUTIRYgoolZVPEdMF93cPySKqonyY1c0m-37qK-MoY04fNIroVgvrV3JWMeSBgEz2Mssd1K6HLh/s1600/TSOP+circuit.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oK7vDFXtVGyncILzdte9Bf5LHUG2TXjDeGeW7jnQZpAVYYmmsDbV6hw0cZjgeLmN1SUTIRYgoolZVPEdMF93cPySKqonyY1c0m-37qK-MoY04fNIroVgvrV3JWMeSBgEz2Mssd1K6HLh/s400/TSOP+circuit.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667077734363027842" border="0" /></a></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">TSALXXXX is a IR LED. Ignore the transmitter part 1st. In my design, +Vs I used is +5V. The OUT pins can be left unconnected 1st to test it functionality. When the voltage +Vs and GND supplied, the OUT value should be high almost ~5V. TSOP48XX working in <span style="font-weight: bold;">active low mode, </span>if it detect any IR light pulse ~40kHz,the the OUT pin will be ~0V!</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">This Infrared receiver(TSOP) only sensitive to an IR light pulse 40khz with 50% duty cycle. From the data sheet, the minimum 10 pulse should be send by the transmitter to make the TSOP able to detect it.</span><span style="display: block;" id="formatbar_Buttons"><span onmouseover="ButtonHoverOn(this);" onmouseout="ButtonHoverOff(this);" onmouseup="" onmousedown="CheckFormatting(event);FormatbarButton('richeditorframe', this, 8);ButtonMouseDown(this);" class=" down" style="display: block;" id="formatbar_CreateLink" title="Link"><img src="http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif" alt="Link" class="gl_link" border="0" /></span></span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">That the introduction, in the next tutorial, I'll show you the working example + video!</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><span class="st">See ya!</span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/10/wireless-infraredir-design-tutorial-2.html"><span class="st"></span></a><span class="st"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/10/wireless-infraredir-design-tutorial-1.html">Wireless InfraRed(IR) Design Tutorial 1</a><br /></span></p><p style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);" class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/10/wireless-infraredir-design-tutorial-2.html"><span class="st">Wireless InfraRed(IR) Design Tutorial 2</span></a></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-15023060736528784542011-06-03T13:32:00.004+08:002011-06-03T13:40:55.066+08:00Announcing The Sketch Plotter Bot!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnOhKrIwtMEoRMUMDzNynOJylL_p8U14Uso0bjGS6ef0-Inz3uCEzZt6AnHKxllKopFO-06-EwpCHDvPvH8-1V3YdOWWQYxAbdQ8Nofl8jCL6_ENHAqxdyOPR6iUhmb-u5lQ4mEhN5RALR/s1600/IMAG1016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnOhKrIwtMEoRMUMDzNynOJylL_p8U14Uso0bjGS6ef0-Inz3uCEzZt6AnHKxllKopFO-06-EwpCHDvPvH8-1V3YdOWWQYxAbdQ8Nofl8jCL6_ENHAqxdyOPR6iUhmb-u5lQ4mEhN5RALR/s400/IMAG1016.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The UNO is here!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYcO3Ble-FeLPPXhKTgAM9HCb9J0kn2iBSi6rPiMZ6EwuRuP3utg1JSFubdSLMRVjkJ6xe_6_5iwPcWILnpjQ9NajWsSeYfa9FmtXMXyRfd5PZ1_45pTZJqbkAgy_DDbHO6hdmztQPQH-/s1600/IMAG1017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYcO3Ble-FeLPPXhKTgAM9HCb9J0kn2iBSi6rPiMZ6EwuRuP3utg1JSFubdSLMRVjkJ6xe_6_5iwPcWILnpjQ9NajWsSeYfa9FmtXMXyRfd5PZ1_45pTZJqbkAgy_DDbHO6hdmztQPQH-/s400/IMAG1017.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The sketch plotter bot is now officially on its way to construction. The sketch plotter bot will be an XY plotter using pens/markers as the drawing media.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkrsHPJQiuGXEXGUD8AOco22lDHcjiijO5WRUh_RukQCKlDQk5S7E9HXVI91P6FCap-ncqqg5mMeI0nxmPiZlzb2w8AIOfsC3eiD-_yZOH72iyokGzjztq90Zph94UwI5Ws8qhz-jc9Ikz/s1600/cnc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkrsHPJQiuGXEXGUD8AOco22lDHcjiijO5WRUh_RukQCKlDQk5S7E9HXVI91P6FCap-ncqqg5mMeI0nxmPiZlzb2w8AIOfsC3eiD-_yZOH72iyokGzjztq90Zph94UwI5Ws8qhz-jc9Ikz/s400/cnc.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A CNC machine </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Unlike normal CNCs and plotter machines however, the sketch plotter bot will take an image file processed using <a href="http://processing.org/">Processing</a> and sketch an artistic representation of the image instead of line art. Much like <a href="http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/05/the-drawing-machine/">the Drawing Machine</a>. After months of contemplations I've decided on using the <a href="http://arduino.cc/">Arduino </a>platform as it seems to be the easiest to use in terms of assembly, connectivity and especially programmability.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The basic parts list for the project is as following:</div><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li> <a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/50">Arduino UNO to control the motors</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/81">Adafruit motor shield kit for driving the following motors</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/324">12V 350mA 200step/rev bipolar stepper motor (2) for axis control</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.adafruit.com/products/155">Standard servo for pen lifting</a></li>
<li>2 used printers for mechanical parts and chassis (These are more cost effective than buying timing belts, gears and rods separately if I don't need any additional parts. They will also include some stepper motors and drivers)</li>
<li>Sharpie ultra fine point markers ~1mm tip. I may consider using draft pens if these don't work out well.</li>
</ul><br />
I just received the arduino, motors and motor shield kit in the mail today and the arduino proves itself to be as good as it claims. In minutes of troubleshooting (installing the driver and selecting the right COM port) and even fewer minutes of coding I got the on board LED to blink.<br />
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Blinking LED code: <br />
<blockquote>void setup() <br />
{<br />
// set pin 13 as output:<br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); <br />
}<br />
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void loop()<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);<br />
delay(200);<br />
digitalWrite(13, LOW);<br />
delay(200);<br />
}</blockquote>That's it! Good riddance assembly.<br />
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Future milestone accomplishments will include videos. I just won't bother uploading a video of a blinking LED. Although the UNO only has 32kb memory it should be sufficient for plotting data. If it isn't then I'll probably resort to multistage plotting. <br />
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The next step will be controlling the 3 motors to work together to plot the image. As the motor shield cam as a kit I'll have to take some time to assemble and test it. Controlling the motors using Arduino should be a breeze though as there are libraries available for both stepper and servo motors.What are libraries you ask? Basically they're just code that you don't have to write and can use for your own convenience. Don't worry I'll cover this in the next post on motor driving and control.<br />
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Other projects/products worth looking at are:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li> <a href="http://www.contraptor.org/">contraptor.org</a> open source hardware kits developed by a couple of passionate guys. The kits are pretty inexpensive for making your own CNC/plotter machine but I'm not ready to spend that kind of money yet. I'll definitely look into the <a href="http://www.contraptor.org/xy-plotter-belt-sliders">xy-plotter</a> further down the road.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/notever/the-drawing-machine">The drawing machine kickstarter page</a> (different from the above drawing machine link) all I have to say is: </li>
</ul><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEMseSZB8_eihyphenhyphenlv2St37iywxYLPfICKs1cUBQu8Rg2AxWbj9zH8Np3naw7PaLz8Z7PCtCrUaU_YU6FQMwTqALgvws8i8if8FAAxrf3BVMpo9M-blky78XXvUgITCTX3XRI3Vq19EzxMu/s1600/drawing+machine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEMseSZB8_eihyphenhyphenlv2St37iywxYLPfICKs1cUBQu8Rg2AxWbj9zH8Np3naw7PaLz8Z7PCtCrUaU_YU6FQMwTqALgvws8i8if8FAAxrf3BVMpo9M-blky78XXvUgITCTX3XRI3Vq19EzxMu/s640/drawing+machine.jpg" width="424" /></a><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/272088/the-incredible-eggbot">The Incredible Egg Bot!</a> it's a robot that draws on eggs/spherical objects. What more do you want?</li>
<li><a href="http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-thing-o-matic.html">The Makerbot Thing-O-Matic</a> plastic 3D printer. A relatively (and I stress relatively) low price 3D prototyping machine.</li>
</ul>And as an honorable mention, <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-LED-Cube-no-programming-required/">The no programming LED cube</a> since it's so cool.<br />
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As you can see I won't go too deep into technical details or concepts in my posts to maintain focus on the sketch plotter bot itself, but feel free to ask questions in the comments. We'll be glad to answer them.<br />
<br />
- dc</div>fakhruddinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05105435313720098932noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-2145652200355278922011-03-24T01:35:00.016+08:002013-10-21T11:38:54.932+08:00Construct your own DC Power Supply Mark II : Phaserion reporting. <br />
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All Glory to the Almighty Allah who governs every detail of our life. No one can do anything except with the will of Allah SWT.</div>
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As told before, this is the sequel of the article about <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-wall.html">Wall Warts</a> before this. So.. this article focuses on more structural insight, which is very simple but saves a lot of money. Before this, I used an adapter which has tuning knobs to it. However, the voltages are fixed with a fixed increment of several values. So... Some kindergarten electronics to kick in!</div>
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<b><i>Initiation</i></b></div>
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This time, I want more freedom in choosing a voltage, and I have a very good quality adapter for this purpose. The one I obtained looks like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTJP5_uSNxxnGhBwzOXw8sPs0LqOXR2_0ZMItXSI0PwNRNC82Ez0ED9xsIloWWxPzpEHMAlaXOfql23T6zWBVCV0KUfTe9NSCjOulgylWI0EHMc1QyjblRm_9y6s7cLmSn01-WCZozS0/s1600/Image0711.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587334020560358386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTJP5_uSNxxnGhBwzOXw8sPs0LqOXR2_0ZMItXSI0PwNRNC82Ez0ED9xsIloWWxPzpEHMAlaXOfql23T6zWBVCV0KUfTe9NSCjOulgylWI0EHMc1QyjblRm_9y6s7cLmSn01-WCZozS0/s400/Image0711.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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A Canon K30155 AC Adapter for printers, where I keep busted printers and managed to scavenge this. The other components below are some of the parts needed for the construction of the prototype; a perfboard, a plastic tuning knob from an ancient radio, a potentiometer and an <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf">LM317 Variable Voltage Regulator</a>.</div>
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From the adapter, there are two outputs, a 5V/0.2A rail and a 24V/0.55A rail with respect to a common ground. So, I'd like to channel the 25V out to be fed into a regulator, which in our case is an <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf">LM317</a>. The <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf">LM317</a> has a maximum current output of 1.5A so the adapter is tolerable for output variation.</div>
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The circuit to vary the voltage is very simple, as shown in the <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf">datasheet</a>:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4lf639nAFDwjSRixnvQxz_3qBTwhGkzim032kam_j1lw_AUvZHffgrVt2MCtznNv5M4VaV4XkRBvg_cfsmAHeZiQC5fGcyTeBa9cX9TSKst09As-Wj9guYJl3N-GcArjqo5I2luwaNk/s1600/LM317.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587344907521651954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4lf639nAFDwjSRixnvQxz_3qBTwhGkzim032kam_j1lw_AUvZHffgrVt2MCtznNv5M4VaV4XkRBvg_cfsmAHeZiQC5fGcyTeBa9cX9TSKst09As-Wj9guYJl3N-GcArjqo5I2luwaNk/s400/LM317.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 376px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i>Construction</i></b></div>
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So from the structure of the adapter, it's quite obvious how would it serve its purpose as a Power Supply, where it acts as a platform. Now.. Some imagination would be useful:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFdchQVBkNRymEsXCZ43orK2ip_QOGwo18vHbyxn0_pXtOZHIdjIn7-bzFCFt27iC5hARZ1gMW3gUGURYWs2npzsKb8TWI41U00KMbaphW-6Pj9_LoylsIBxQRAgeJFtGL6Bff55NG-Q/s1600/1st.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587343804610298690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFdchQVBkNRymEsXCZ43orK2ip_QOGwo18vHbyxn0_pXtOZHIdjIn7-bzFCFt27iC5hARZ1gMW3gUGURYWs2npzsKb8TWI41U00KMbaphW-6Pj9_LoylsIBxQRAgeJFtGL6Bff55NG-Q/s400/1st.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 213px;" /></a><br />
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You may need to open the figure above in a new tab if you'd like a closer look. *winks*</div>
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So.. from the figure:</div>
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1. Plastic panels from an <b>old clock</b>.... looks pretty suited for the job.</div>
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2. Estimates of the dimensions so that the circuit and everything else fits in properly. The <b>springy cable</b> is from an old phone charger, I thought it's very good for messy jobs where you might <i><b>tug your circuits accidentally</b></i>, so the springy part sort of <b>absorbs some motion</b>. Just an <i>idea</i> guys... no need to follow everything.</div>
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3. Holding the structure using rubber bands so that <b>rigidity</b> is achieved for the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a> to dry out properly. Note that the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a> is applied on the inner side so that the <b>smear of the glue is not exposed</b>. For aesthetic purposes. (Rubber bands? Oh noooo....Nah, it's okay, they're proper for the job)</div>
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4. The curved plastic sides added, also from the clock panels, glued accordingly.</div>
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5. Added the small plastic pieces to act as a <b>platform for the screw threads</b> for the panel to close the opening.</div>
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6. The front view, see the parts where the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a> fills in. Also, the previous <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-wall.html">Variator Wall Wart</a> is shown there for size comparison. <b><i>Note</i></b> that they have the same output socket to be plugged into the <b>conditioning circuit</b>, so it's easy for us to <b><i>alternate</i></b> <b><i>between the two supplies</i></b> according to our preference <i><b>without changing the interfacing power sockets</b></i>.</div>
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7. Added <b>indicator LEDs</b> for three categories: A <b>green</b> LED to indicate the input power to the regulator, a <b>red</b> LED to indicate the 5V rail, and <b>blue</b> for the 24V rail. Note that for the LED which is powered from the 24V rail, we'll need a Resistor with a higher tolerance. Also, note that the <b><i>technique used to protect the wiring</i></b> is similar as shown in the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2011/03/construct-your-own-dc-power-supply-wall.html">Variator</a> article, where I encased the wiring using a pen casing, glued to the male socket.</div>
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8. Plastic panel cut to size as closure, which can be reopened for inspection if necessary.</div>
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9. Just a dash of <i>aesthetics</i>... sprayed black paint at the upper part of the structure.</div>
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10.<b> Phaserion Power Supply</b> completed. Below, the circuitry of the <b>Phaserion</b> is provided.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Ev4eFZmBFdXubUCQjHmB2HoHfY_3Tbk464frjJSRMFchGrFZkpqom3RX9meF_kmpQvp0If_nZHOi1IiFjt0rp9YGRD2YPktNRet_exoL2B6KsIRPQRSiNkU6VVd9Kmo2oFV0C-Qx8JI/s1600/3rd.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587453803216665410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Ev4eFZmBFdXubUCQjHmB2HoHfY_3Tbk464frjJSRMFchGrFZkpqom3RX9meF_kmpQvp0If_nZHOi1IiFjt0rp9YGRD2YPktNRet_exoL2B6KsIRPQRSiNkU6VVd9Kmo2oFV0C-Qx8JI/s400/3rd.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 216px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i>Foreclosure of a Design.</i></b></div>
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Now.. at last, just for fun, I also would like to construct the plug to supply from the mains, but just so you guys know, there are ratings of the wiring which may be ahead of you guys, so do this only under supervision from someone who has electrical knowledge. <b>I take NO responsibility if you get yourself injured through electric shock</b>. This part is not necessary if you already have your own standard main power plugs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5xtI9pXGTn8kWj4QzN4H1UFfEwG7KH3Wsg1XI-KR0FR_fcQ6n1mfiAXGxIvvSZk5TflvGrzg5ssIme2w4tQO94BlQnjbY_02IyrasWPxWPnwoQZ073ElmF7-UY9d3UMdO_oa4C6uW2_s/s1600/2nd.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587438651416848418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5xtI9pXGTn8kWj4QzN4H1UFfEwG7KH3Wsg1XI-KR0FR_fcQ6n1mfiAXGxIvvSZk5TflvGrzg5ssIme2w4tQO94BlQnjbY_02IyrasWPxWPnwoQZ073ElmF7-UY9d3UMdO_oa4C6uW2_s/s400/2nd.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 357px;" /></a><br />
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So... knowing the risks mentioned, we proceed:</div>
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1. A <b><i>plug from a CRT circuitry</i></b> which fits the dual terminals of the adapter, an <b><i>ex-soldering iron cable </i></b>(you know... they get damaged easily, especially the cheap ones.. so just so that you know, I prefer <b>Ceramic Heater Soldering Irons</b>. ) .... and to cover the whole thing, I used <b><i>scavenged keyboard buttons</i></b> to encase the exposed part of the wiring.</div>
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2. Soldered the terminals.</div>
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3. Some <b><i>extra insulation</i></b> using electrical tape, and fitted into the keyboard buttons, which now serve as a casing.</div>
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4. <b>Press</b> 'em using the cute G-clamp and <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">glue</a> 'em.</div>
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5. After drying, fit and a dash of black spray paint, you can try it.. looks like any normal plug, hopefully. *winks*.</div>
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6. The LEDs<i> light up</i>, ready to be used.</div>
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<b><i>Conclusion</i></b></div>
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So... there you are. The structure is simple, rigid, and insyaAllah will last for a long time. The <b>Recycletronics</b> theme is still utilized at its best in this project, where I probably used up around only a few ringgit. Useful for research projects and prototyping as well, and you don't have to fish out fifty bucks for branded DC supplies... just fish out your junk and use the rest of the money for charity.</div>
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I named this prototype Phaserion because the variation of the voltage can be changed accordingly, so as to a <b>phase shift</b>. So there you go: <b>Phaserion</b> and <b>Variator</b>, working in tandem.</div>
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May Allah be pleased with us when we reduce our expenses for ourselves and more for other people who may need more.</div>
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All the best to the ones out there.</div>
Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-46372465056723822742011-03-20T06:31:00.021+08:002013-10-18T14:42:59.299+08:00Construct your own DC Power Supply Wall Wart! Variator Reporting.<div>
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Alhamdulillah. All Praises to Allah SWT who created and governed everything in this world.</div>
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So guys.. we'll be doing something very important for hobbyists here. All electronic circuits require a steady power supply, and you'll get fed up using batteries for testing purposes, which run out of juice for only an hour's worth of running time.. That excludes the electrolytes which leak out after some time.. (NOOOO!!!).....</div>
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So.. normally people would opt to: Buy a costly DC wall wart, with fancy controls and an indicator (which is sometimes deceiving) and risk thinning your wallets......</div>
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.....or construct their own by buying cheap DC supplies and hacking it to suit their applications. In my experience, after some time the cheap DC supply will be overheated and you'll be left with a fuselage of burnt plastic and a dead transformer.</div>
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....or you can opt to take a leaf out of the book of <b><span class="Apple-style-span">Vortex Electrica</span></b> and use your own adapters in your house. There are tons of adapters for various applications; Laptop chargers, printer adapters, cellphone chargers (especially old ones), and so on. What's the difference between the ones you buy? Normally adapters for branded stuff have more quality and more protection circuitry. So... This is my collection:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeVOj6qF9BsSd8X_8UN5JL-7i19XRIjFdwxBhesBsjGOXgnOVwYWEIAjcY37qKJXepzrjU0QFBsz6ZyVahwmiEA3RooCyOuqgqLNDdeVEwnOXuDkaiS6bkzsu6FESJCskAVR00IHnrkE/s1600/Image0673.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5585927208929512130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeVOj6qF9BsSd8X_8UN5JL-7i19XRIjFdwxBhesBsjGOXgnOVwYWEIAjcY37qKJXepzrjU0QFBsz6ZyVahwmiEA3RooCyOuqgqLNDdeVEwnOXuDkaiS6bkzsu6FESJCskAVR00IHnrkE/s400/Image0673.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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A lot huh? Some of 'em are damaged, and some are okay. Each can be tested easily using an LED and a 100 ohm resistor.</div>
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So... the obvious steps for anyone with basics is to cut the wires loose and connect crocodile clippers to them, right?</div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span">WRONG!</span></b> From experience, the weak points are always attributed to the connection between the wire and clip, because the <span class="Apple-style-span"><b>CLIPS SUFFERS THE MOST MECHANICAL STRESS HERE, SO THEY BREAK APART EASILY AFTER SOME TIME</b></span>. So if you don't want to have to repeatedly re-solder the clips to the wires, the best thing to do is to make separate connections, which can be plugged when in use. In short, see below:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WJ-vKFe-9ujO5vpcq7N7cG6s2vZ4-3vjfxhdyOPvGD48DxEliQCHHFdJbwc3Vlko26DwoUdNxa6cp81fOMPa6Ets0Tuz4btTxbninlF_nVcwks29q0nraucqcpK3x_TljSGiLl9C41c/s1600/untitled.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5585934520502051266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WJ-vKFe-9ujO5vpcq7N7cG6s2vZ4-3vjfxhdyOPvGD48DxEliQCHHFdJbwc3Vlko26DwoUdNxa6cp81fOMPa6Ets0Tuz4btTxbninlF_nVcwks29q0nraucqcpK3x_TljSGiLl9C41c/s400/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 193px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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So.. the figure should give an idea. Also, this means that the power from the DC adapter can be plugged into other circuits i.e not only the crocodile clips but also to a breadboard, or any other devices which have the corresponding socket to fit.</div>
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Now, another series of ideas comes into play: I want to have.....</div>
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a. indicators to know that it is <span class="Apple-style-span">ON</span>, and</div>
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b. I want to be able to <span class="Apple-style-span">switch ON/OFF</span> the power at hand, not at the mains where things might get messy, and</div>
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c. I want it to be <span class="Apple-style-span">STABLE</span>, not fluctuating power, and</div>
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d. I want it to be <span class="Apple-style-span">VARIABLE</span>, not fixed.</div>
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So the rest is easy... Add a green LED to indicate ON, a mono-state switch, a filter monolithic capacitor across the terminals, and a variable voltage regulator, like an <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf">LM317</a> or other equivalent components. In short, everything'll look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOU6dG5Cv6YAwuwYAeV55pj1vb13Zz1iFPUyTqvUE1x6VdFHOonmSoYD9I3yeYrvD6BR0caVQA9iFed2HCBl57fjv6bkzqIhBjwnXTeZF3cuFLsMDCLnFlrHKz5gvnW77XzKv3jgn7MQ/s1600/untitled2.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586149233511252226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsOU6dG5Cv6YAwuwYAeV55pj1vb13Zz1iFPUyTqvUE1x6VdFHOonmSoYD9I3yeYrvD6BR0caVQA9iFed2HCBl57fjv6bkzqIhBjwnXTeZF3cuFLsMDCLnFlrHKz5gvnW77XzKv3jgn7MQ/s400/untitled2.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 193px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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So as we go along I'll explain the tips and tricks I employed, which may be of use, since we're all about IDEAS at the first place. So here goes:</div>
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First Prototype: <b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i></i></span></b><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>VARIATOR<sup>TM</sup></i></span></b></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i> Wall Wart</i></span></b> (I named it for reference... Heh heh..)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq02wY2S6Td4CRyLQdCzSP_I65GJlcNd2eB9Vijohn3gpS9pFMvoVAwQFqcMiG3iySUJaX8vfOtJAkHRIkST7Qik5YdGXuPjhrxDrz7N3lvx14SRuK6tfavahjmpoV1bqSfM3IliNo39Q/s1600/variator+1.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586157986107144418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq02wY2S6Td4CRyLQdCzSP_I65GJlcNd2eB9Vijohn3gpS9pFMvoVAwQFqcMiG3iySUJaX8vfOtJAkHRIkST7Qik5YdGXuPjhrxDrz7N3lvx14SRuK6tfavahjmpoV1bqSfM3IliNo39Q/s400/variator+1.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 326px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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So the figure shows some simple stuff:</div>
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1. Solder the male socket wiring to the Adapter wiring. In this picture, notice that the <b><span class="Apple-style-span">GREY </span></b>insulation is there, standing by to sheath the exposed soldered part of the wiring. This means <b><span class="Apple-style-span">BEFORE </span></b>soldering, fit in the insulation first. You can get that type of insulation from various types of wiring which has thicker wires.</div>
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2. The exposed part of the wiring is now covered properly by sliding the grey insulation over it. Take note that you have to make sure the inner part of the wiring is also insulated so that no short-circuit takes place. Note that the adapter has a tuning knob there, with fixed values from 3.0,4.5,6.0,7.5 until 21 Volts.</div>
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3. Now, add a plastic cover over all the stress points, and glue it accordingly. This makes a nice, difficult-to-break-apart socket. This means if there are any mechanical stress suffered by the socket, the wiring will out of the way, and the plastic cover will take the load. The figure below explains better:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0I2IKYoeBDwQGPAnetnuGJBLsqkTxRJVQs4yYTplknDKU4SIE7-8ZRk0i6sUgCjdg0hHxPnkYpmYqRfEFPy74kicso1vtuvkAUxq6JZDnnBMzyM0Uwsk-OJ_dhn1SDcaupB-VxIGt8I/s1600/variator+2.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586192345017959826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0I2IKYoeBDwQGPAnetnuGJBLsqkTxRJVQs4yYTplknDKU4SIE7-8ZRk0i6sUgCjdg0hHxPnkYpmYqRfEFPy74kicso1vtuvkAUxq6JZDnnBMzyM0Uwsk-OJ_dhn1SDcaupB-VxIGt8I/s400/variator+2.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 263px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 376px;" /></a><br />
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See that the one on the left is one without the casing, so the break points are easily formed at the soldered points, rather than the one on the left, where the load is shifted to the plastic casing, reinforced with <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a>.</div>
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Next, a conditioning circuit is shown here:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWZ1-T4S3kJ0YXymqNemw-8sqCI895lEONc_XQfmpi0LiIGnCo-z7h5sgf5LlRZtON30C9vMnwxdtsz3T_rxns-o7CmGGz7OidJDc_6VkWdSUAebTWrOazdWt6wAofENrYV14danSb6E/s1600/Image0921.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586196585555388722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWZ1-T4S3kJ0YXymqNemw-8sqCI895lEONc_XQfmpi0LiIGnCo-z7h5sgf5LlRZtON30C9vMnwxdtsz3T_rxns-o7CmGGz7OidJDc_6VkWdSUAebTWrOazdWt6wAofENrYV14danSb6E/s400/Image0921.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
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The conditioning circuit is also a separate entity, as declared in the plan before, which fits in a green indicator LED, an ON/OFF switch, a freewheeling diode (to counter backward EMF spikes), a filter capacitor to stabilize supply, and a female USB port.</div>
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Now, why did I use a USB socket? Because I have a lot of 'em, and they don't leave room for reverse connection, which could be disastrous. The male USB connector is wired to the crocodile clips, which we'll explain in the following. <i><b><span class="Apple-style-span">USB ports have four terminals, so I combined two terminals together to get two crocodile clip terminals.</span></b></i></div>
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So now.... The crocodile clips. The main problem with most clips is also due to the mechanical stress it faces. So here's my design:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3FBKAW4Fm4-ngV1p41FAjQNCNuuWtZWOzSQYnxp4i_Mv6ptcKDPD6VJP-xfkLc4H0DauHVFOVaWvrN1JqRjE75LIjezgyVMcy2ti4ygbbou9uZDDcqUx-FYbMloYPyY_NNKjqbVCI-E/s1600/untitled4.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586211009301165410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3FBKAW4Fm4-ngV1p41FAjQNCNuuWtZWOzSQYnxp4i_Mv6ptcKDPD6VJP-xfkLc4H0DauHVFOVaWvrN1JqRjE75LIjezgyVMcy2ti4ygbbou9uZDDcqUx-FYbMloYPyY_NNKjqbVCI-E/s400/untitled4.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 399px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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So the <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">epoxy glue</a> is very important to secure the connections. Also, the plastic casing protects the wiring and shifts the mechanical load of the wiring to itself. The USB socket is a bonus; it's strong and has only a single orientation when you plug it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqjSG-YnTOY05fcaJ7TC8tYnmmmkG5AG0UhlmfC6CA02e-JecVWlMKhPdMesqi_lXsKGt1CsqVw9qAhm0Zd-wR3nCNwymdiqqLl0ZAR_KV-i2iZrwRb2Ukdjzr_o2lsOlp8Cigwo2xC90/s1600/untitled5.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5586214557476404610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqjSG-YnTOY05fcaJ7TC8tYnmmmkG5AG0UhlmfC6CA02e-JecVWlMKhPdMesqi_lXsKGt1CsqVw9qAhm0Zd-wR3nCNwymdiqqLl0ZAR_KV-i2iZrwRb2Ukdjzr_o2lsOlp8Cigwo2xC90/s400/untitled5.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 138px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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The figure above shows the transition according to the design mentioned above. </div>
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First, fitting the wires inside the plastic casing. I must warn you, it is pretty tricky to fit in the wires in such a cramped space. </div>
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Second, the clips' wiring and gluing is done.</div>
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Third, just to show when everything's in place.</div>
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So, the conclusion is that while it takes a bit more time to do this, you'll save more time than attending to the wires again and again when they break off due to the wear and tear effect. </div>
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So that's it! You have a sturdy Wall Wart for yourself and you don't need to spend much in constructing one. A variant of this (more hardcore DIY-ing) will be provided in future articles, InsyaAllah. For such a simple project, a lot of drilling down is done to provide IDEAS. So.. hopefully some of them will be of use.</div>
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All the best to ones out there struggling with their lives... May we live to please Allah more.</div>
Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-80010088725456904022011-03-16T02:23:00.030+08:002013-10-18T14:43:35.056+08:00Vortex Rechargeable Battery Pack Mark II<div>
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Assalamualaikum to all VE readers... it has been a while since we posted anything new, but I'll try to put up some old stuff, which is pretty simple but nevertheless provides a new perspective in DIY stuff.</div>
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So... I suppose you have read some of our older articles regarding <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/09/get-your-own-homemade-rechargeable.html">rechargeable battery packs</a>? Well this article is pretty similar conceptually, but with some major changes in reliability and structure. What I found out when I was using the older version is that, when one of the batteries conks out, it is pretty difficult to know which one is so, so you have to test them using LEDs, while fumbling through your prototype wiring and so on. This design is more rugged, stable, and takes safety into consideration, if the battery leaks or explodes, etc.</div>
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Let the graphics speak for themselves.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-ddNf6kCi4YxFVsBRahSDbGJmNDbb8LCHplrHH0lEXzO_BkhwpqbKrrBAnpCvuH0u39jWHMrvB9RCshxOXHb_EoVYRtNujdn1IXSwJsX16EcT_CW9eJhaMz7OC2n1HwnqME3owuPvjY/s1600/1.+Original+Batteries.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584674103468812354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-ddNf6kCi4YxFVsBRahSDbGJmNDbb8LCHplrHH0lEXzO_BkhwpqbKrrBAnpCvuH0u39jWHMrvB9RCshxOXHb_EoVYRtNujdn1IXSwJsX16EcT_CW9eJhaMz7OC2n1HwnqME3owuPvjY/s400/1.+Original+Batteries.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 296px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Initiation.</span></i></b></div>
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Here is the transition from raw batteries into being wired up (soldered of course), geared for testing & combination. So... Some notes to be taken:</div>
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1. In the bottom of the figure, both of the batteries in the left are Samsung batteries, and they have three and four terminals respectively. The way to know the right wiring is not only by testing it using a Digital Multimeter (DMM, check the highest voltage) <b>but</b> to also test using LEDs and see which combination produces the brightest intensity, because voltage itself doesn't mean it delivers the desired amount of current. Third is a Nokia battery, and fourth is a Sony Ericson.</div>
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2. <span class="Apple-style-span">Color Coding</span> is very important (red: positive terminal, black: negative). When the whole thing is connected, you'll easily see from the color. Also, it is a good practice for all projects as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwEouf1DiVf1MoiPNTgJtVFyy_5ZO5SC7tnhv1rW-D__gsk2L0ZGr-zptYjL_shAlLJw74oMgCfOzVsX6UZFqqDM9VAUipr3Neg2M5UXUGSzcqaT2CTltH2viOt-o4hm_-q6VtBaSq6I/s1600/2.+Functionality+Testing.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584677382647656450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwEouf1DiVf1MoiPNTgJtVFyy_5ZO5SC7tnhv1rW-D__gsk2L0ZGr-zptYjL_shAlLJw74oMgCfOzVsX6UZFqqDM9VAUipr3Neg2M5UXUGSzcqaT2CTltH2viOt-o4hm_-q6VtBaSq6I/s400/2.+Functionality+Testing.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 397px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Quality Check</span></i></b></div>
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The next figure is the QC part. You'll see how two batteries are recharged on a breadboard. Explanation:</div>
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1. LED's off, meaning the battery's conked.</div>
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2. Now we'll recharge it for a few seconds....</div>
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3. LED's on. Battery is still functioning. Result: PASS</div>
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4. Sony Ericson battery's status: Charging....</div>
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5. LED's on. Battery is still functioning. Result: PASS</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMkjAJhHC1zUj5N3oDegmvGc35o9x0YBNGi1vMTK8irUcGmgO3ax35zW6Np5iWHh9d20OmWmMrQJN2tGngyJBm7uGWhlZkHX6tJopOIm32v4GM-sDYt1eKAZXuH3IW9-ntfV5RnHV8KyQ/s1600/3.+Combined+Voltage+Output.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584679313671548370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMkjAJhHC1zUj5N3oDegmvGc35o9x0YBNGi1vMTK8irUcGmgO3ax35zW6Np5iWHh9d20OmWmMrQJN2tGngyJBm7uGWhlZkHX6tJopOIm32v4GM-sDYt1eKAZXuH3IW9-ntfV5RnHV8KyQ/s400/3.+Combined+Voltage+Output.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
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The image above is just to show how much voltage will it generate if all the batteries are connected. If you're afraid of combining different batteries together, read a <a href="http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Arm1.iy1qL7tZC_R5JG9Ri_ty6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20090513024533AAHsawg">reply</a> to a my similar worry a few years ago. :)</div>
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Quote of the reply:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">There's no problem of using batteries of varying capacities in series as long as each is delivering it's share of the power.<br /><br />The problem occurs when the battery with the lowest capacity runs out of charge. Since the current is still flowing in the <span class="yshortcuts" id="lw_1300285792_0">same direction</span> (courtesy of all the other cells), it's effect is to place a reversed voltage across the dead cell. This could lead to the depleted cell either overheating or exploding.</span></i></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5J5S0FWBkeJoeT2OnwPGMrjkVRbPfdNB-zsHA1_03-rV1ejKpQG7yWhkjDccOfmp1a2w75C6sN5kTTsRcQGTpKnbgTlavU5bgqk_BggoZefQUtAOYXfLI4NQfsfFi1XpC7-osbB-AgbU/s1600/4.+Socket+Extraction.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584680805950315986" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5J5S0FWBkeJoeT2OnwPGMrjkVRbPfdNB-zsHA1_03-rV1ejKpQG7yWhkjDccOfmp1a2w75C6sN5kTTsRcQGTpKnbgTlavU5bgqk_BggoZefQUtAOYXfLI4NQfsfFi1XpC7-osbB-AgbU/s400/4.+Socket+Extraction.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 330px;" /></a><b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Terminals of the batteries</i></span></b></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span"><i></i></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><i><br /></i></b></span>
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Next, let us show how the terminals are derived. This may take some time, but Nokia handphones' sockets are rugged and doesn't leave room for misconnections due to polarity confusion i.e sometimes you insert the terminals incorrectly due to structural reasons. Some elaboration:</div>
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A. All sockets harvested from Nokia cellphones.</div>
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B. One of them looks like this, with a tape at the back. Remove the tape.</div>
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C. Now you can see the metal contacts clearly for halving. You might cut it wrongly, so observe the metal contact regions.</div>
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D. Clamp it using a small G-clamp (they're VERY useful)</div>
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E. Saw it (a hacksaw is also very useful)</div>
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I. Now you have extracted a socket, and you can bend the terminals for fitting it into a holed circuit board.</div>
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F. Another instance (from the ubiquitous 3310)</div>
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G. After being sawed....</div>
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H. Bend the terminals to reveal the metal contacts.</div>
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J. Solder them on a donut perfboard. I know this seems tedious, but believe me, The task of connections after that is a breeze, since you don't need to worry about the terminals anymore.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span">IMPORTANT</span>: Make sure of the right terminals (positive/negative) are identified on the sockets' terminals by sticking a Nokia Charger into each socket, and check the polarity using a DMM or an LED.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTW7Wwt14Bvj1CEzOTOwO6XIIo7KgO5rFtw6dh1S-lYcwAcp72qZ-T2nYFwzmdkM9BvFEicZaF1jAevcWbWLb1p2JHRjBuyqvnWSOwmv4B5qsDxCKfuSJlnQsleXQv27UiB6A3TMgr5Y/s1600/5.+Basic+Battery+Structure.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584685677943760946" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTW7Wwt14Bvj1CEzOTOwO6XIIo7KgO5rFtw6dh1S-lYcwAcp72qZ-T2nYFwzmdkM9BvFEicZaF1jAevcWbWLb1p2JHRjBuyqvnWSOwmv4B5qsDxCKfuSJlnQsleXQv27UiB6A3TMgr5Y/s400/5.+Basic+Battery+Structure.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 325px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Basic Structure</span></i></b></div>
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Now... The next step is to combine the rest. So... the figure above shows the combination done from 1 to 3. The boxes number 4 & 5 show the sockets being combined with the wiring (Hence the importance of color coding the wires).</div>
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Box No. 6 show the batteries being recharged. I used a Nokia 3310 Charger, which is very common in my house as an attic material.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsnsvBQkJbci2_A-FIBu-deoxHlYN-2XfTybDvbzoIJwkEDBfaSQHFE11v57B4MjTQya0Q-wttFymNbJhwdxg7JCz2Jojs84pP44GwZanKwHgVXgsQknB2Q0yAQN51Y9U1lenJeCHIIw/s1600/6.+Overall+Structure+Completed.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584708530416413410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsnsvBQkJbci2_A-FIBu-deoxHlYN-2XfTybDvbzoIJwkEDBfaSQHFE11v57B4MjTQya0Q-wttFymNbJhwdxg7JCz2Jojs84pP44GwZanKwHgVXgsQknB2Q0yAQN51Y9U1lenJeCHIIw/s400/6.+Overall+Structure+Completed.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 261px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Battery Tester Systems</span></i></b></div>
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Next, I wanted an off-board testing capability for the batteries, so I thought of using some old cellphone keypad boards which have pretty LEDs to it. They're very bright, and aesthetically good as well.</div>
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The figure above (You may want to click on it for a clearer view) tells:</div>
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a. A cellphone keypad board, which has SMT LEDs on it.</div>
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b. Just test the LEDs by connecting a supply to the terminals of the revealed LEDs. All of them are connected in parallel, so the rest of the LEDs should lighten up as well when you supply to only one of them</div>
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c & d: Screwed the LED board to the battery pack as a platform.</div>
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e. Another view of the unglued structure.</div>
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f. <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">Epoxy glue</a> comes into play.</div>
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g. Drying the structure under heat</div>
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h. Halved pen casing to cover the external wiring of the LED keypad circuit. A white female socket is used for the Battery Tester Pad.</div>
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i. Pressed using another G-clamp and glued.</div>
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Basic structure complete.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gReaTPFSC4tlJq_K8A_Bs1vnjUixEOWh-tz1pYYWbi-35zsoMkwDAgNGbKHTxab4A8dLKfe6P1bvS8_-DcvHmkGxUVbt8k-iuWSSB_dONGJmR12JKfNkoY8LxkTbPNELt5H2Uo0oGYc/s1600/7.+Socket+1st+part.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584714455451430306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gReaTPFSC4tlJq_K8A_Bs1vnjUixEOWh-tz1pYYWbi-35zsoMkwDAgNGbKHTxab4A8dLKfe6P1bvS8_-DcvHmkGxUVbt8k-iuWSSB_dONGJmR12JKfNkoY8LxkTbPNELt5H2Uo0oGYc/s400/7.+Socket+1st+part.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 287px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Male Socket Extraction.</span></i></b></div>
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Here, I have some male sockets from broken Nokia chargers and they'll be used to interface the battery to external devices. And:</div>
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A. Four different male sockets shown there, un-scalped except the second one from the left.</div>
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B. All male sockets harvested and stripped.</div>
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C & D: A plastic piece to act as a frame for the sockets</div>
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E. All wired up</div>
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F. <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">Epoxy glue</a> kicks in. (I like this stuff)</div>
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G. Completed part of the external male socket.</div>
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This looks easy, but it takes time also. So... take your time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtwJ_vPwHPMu9LhHbW4JnOt3pYXKT_fyX4A-FdQGmKLr2YnW-DFUpyK9ozcU_TZ0R60jedyXmW0DWsBA3fksMGbq2-mRgIRFgZAB7Z-csQG2pswmAX-73PsvnAHXufHlkwpWzfGa2N7Q/s1600/8.+Interfacer.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5584719010650038114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtwJ_vPwHPMu9LhHbW4JnOt3pYXKT_fyX4A-FdQGmKLr2YnW-DFUpyK9ozcU_TZ0R60jedyXmW0DWsBA3fksMGbq2-mRgIRFgZAB7Z-csQG2pswmAX-73PsvnAHXufHlkwpWzfGa2N7Q/s400/8.+Interfacer.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 227px;" /></a><br />
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Lastly... The figure above shows the last part, which is the Interfacer circuit. The way I wanted my battery to be is that it has an on-board tester, so that when you connect it to a prototype, you can continually monitor the condition of the battery. Also, a common interfacing connection between the battery and other circuits are needed. Explained as follows:</div>
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i. Male socket soldered to a donut perfboard</div>
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ii. A plastic case, which fits the imagination.</div>
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iii. Cut it into half.</div>
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iv. Now some ingredients shown here: green LEDs salvaged from keyboards, switches from mice, and drilled plastic casing to emphasize on the DIY and Recycletronics scene. (Heh heh...)</div>
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v. Fitted them all together.</div>
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vi. The <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">Epoxy Glue</a> Guy being nosy again...</div>
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vii. Added 100 ohm resistors for each tester LEDs and extended the LED terminals using the wires.</div>
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viii. Everything on display again; note that anti-ripple capacitors are added on the board for steady supply, alongside the USB female sockets.</div>
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ix. A side view before enclosure. </div>
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x. All connections soldered, fused, clamped and <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">glued</a> together.</div>
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xi. All ready for testing.</div>
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xii. The interfacing circuit, which is very simple, but I just wanted to fill in the box there.</div>
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xiii. Testing... testing.... Yup everything's good.</div>
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The rest of the performance is demonstrated in the video here:<br />
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<object height="390" style="height: 390px; width: 640px;" width="640"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/9aVrBxtSAKQ?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/9aVrBxtSAKQ?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="640" height="390"></embed></object>.</div>
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span">Conclusion.</span></i></b></div>
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So... a pretty lengthy article for such a simple project. What I'm trying to explain here is that there are myriads of techniques that can be employed when constructing a prototype. This is only a blog of IDEAS. So hopefully some is provided as well. The theme of my project orbits around using only the stuff I have in my house, so that's why the components used seem restricted. Probably just my habit, but I just wanted to demonstrate that it doesn't take much money to get practical experience actually, because everything's around you. I spent no money on building this prototype, if you exclude the epoxy glue.</div>
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As a reminder to everyone and myself, don't spend too much time on satisfying our needs (like doing projects, working, relaxing, etc) . This article is only an expression of a hobby, and nothing more. There are lots of duties to be fulfilled to Allah Almighty, which should be our focus in our life. Hopefully after reading this article, we'll realize that in our hustle and bustle, we'll quickly spare more time to please Allah SWT, for the life in hereafter is Eternal, and life in this world is only transient. InsyaAllah Tuan!!!</div>
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Best Regards to UM's Electrical Engineering Graduates.</div>
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Vizier87</div>
Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-81366255842401353032010-10-02T07:15:00.004+08:002013-10-18T14:43:55.537+08:00Epoxy Glue Basics<div>
Assalamualaikum to all VE readers,</div>
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This'll be a very simple article from <span class="Apple-style-span">VORTEX ELECTRICA</span>'s structural personnel which will be referred in future articles, especially for the ones who love getting their hands dirty and assemble stuff with an eye for aesthetics in constructing things.</div>
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I'm not trying to make things rigid here, but the best one I used is made by Bostik, called<b><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Bostik Epoxy Super Steel</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span">.</span> It costs a bit more than the other Bostik type (which is still sticky after drying out half of the time, and the strength is only so-so), but I'll have to say that if you're looking for durability and sheer strength, then this is the glue for you. Also, it'll be incredibly handy for other construction of prototypes as well. </div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; color: #0000ee;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523186106319171298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsQ_VUJ8Ojx2RVam894U2O8-bI0N2y_pvgyK6mBe8dMk7ezURsXePbrGd95BRWkvOITXdSxcuFhCczHUNBaobEUvieRkB-nIc8lnIZKqw5k1TdS_ZEyuhCG0M0iwSWZ_b75p8lc9dSP8/s320/Epoxy+Steps.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 91px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; color: #0000ee;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The picture above shows a very simple info about this component:</div>
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i: The Epoxy Super Steel, its full fury and sheer strength trapped within the tube containing it</div>
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ii: After pulling out the tubes, <span class="Apple-style-span">DON'T THROW THE PACKAGING</span>! The highlighted area in green is a perfect space to contain the components for mixing</div>
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iii: Mixing of equal parts of both components (1:1 ratio) and..... I used a toothpick, which is perfect for an artistic job rather than use the "spatula" provided, which will be a mess if you use it.</div>
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After the glue dries up,<span class="Apple-style-span"><b> it's practically a hard lump of plastic which can be sandpapered and drilled</b></span>! So... right now you just have to have your pile of junk, a small saw, a cordless drill and your imagination to build yourself a prototype!</div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span">Take note that you should wash your hands immediately if your skin comes into contact with the glue</span></b>. <span class="Apple-style-span">There is nothing to be afraid of, they're very easy to remove</span> unlike the nasty, nasty, nasty, naaaaaasty Elephant Glue (Yuck!!! I'm never buying those anymore!). Epoxy glue is a hundred times better.</div>
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I take no responsibility for accidents which may happen if you don't take precautions. Wearing gloves is the best, and if you're not then just be careful.</div>
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Take care,</div>
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Vizier87.</div>
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Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-5841313333282515362010-10-01T23:40:00.015+08:002011-04-11T14:43:18.575+08:00Jumper Cables from Junk<div style="text-align: left;">Ach-tung to all VE readers!! </div><div><br /></div><div>I think I owe an apology for not regulating this site, since we're all out of the juice needed to write articles here. I'll be giving some simple, very simple stuff which no-one has done yet, at least in my circle. </div><div><br /></div><div>Beautifulmind and Deathclaw are pretty busy engineers at the moment, and I'm kinda busy too.. but in a different way since I'm not working or continuing my studies yet, and yes, I'm going for the latter after this. So... Enough of my lugubriousness here... we'll get to the topic now.</div><div><br /></div><div>One aspect of being an electronics hobbyist is that we'll need to channel voltage/current supply to our circuits or motors or even a single LED to a Wall Wart or a DC Supply or a battery. Rather than using wires to touch the terminals using your hands, or doing that messy temporary soldering to connect the terminals, people like to use jumper cables.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>Heard of this one before?</div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large; "><span class="Apple-style-span">"The strength of a chain lies in the weakest link"</span></span></b></div><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">This is also the golden rule with jumper connectors. No matter how beautiful or strong the grip is, you'll always end up with broken jumper connectors with the usual crocodile clips. This is because the wires are not adhered to the clips properly. You'll notice it takes more than soldering the contacts to have good quality jumper cables.</span></div></div><div><br /></div><div>There is absolutely nothing going on here except that you'll notice: <b><span class="Apple-style-span">You don't need to buy the jumper cables, you don't need to be a geek to build one, and you certainly don't need to fish out three or four bucks for each jumper connectors which USUALLY don't last and will need to be repaired after some time due to wires breaking off after some time, which is due to the mechanical stress.</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>So.... Naturally mistakes were made, and better solutions were discovered...According to<span class="Apple-style-span"> five years of experience</span> of building my own jumper cables, I'll name a few ingredients needed for this recipe (assemble your junk collection and you'll get more options, these are only the ones I made, you might be able to make better ones):</div><div><br /></div><div>1. <b><span class="Apple-style-span">Name Tag clips</span></b>, which are made out of steel. They're very strong, and the grip is <span class="Apple-style-span">MUCH</span> stronger than the generic crocodile clips., they have holes which aid in knotting or fitting in other strengthening elements. Here's my collection after extracting 'em from various name tags: </div><div><br /></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5wzGNnP0LIWjYaBErZgmTJD1FCmRPrytW10FTV4xOqrPrVwy1zccboClLNppbjuTPuFeWvIV5569OOX-zsN76sLYmnq_M4851JaK86GVzRGWkT7bj5RpZ45he49rMGHeT6Uoxu1DrI9U/s320/Extraction.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523186113539001842" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 102px; " /></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>I used pliers to pull out the aluminum rivets which hold the plastic and the steel clip together. Notice that the rightmost one is an anomaly, that one is cut from plastic name tags which has the metal clip part on it. It serves a lot of purpose too.</div><div><br /></div><div>2.<span class="Apple-style-span"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Wire</span>.</b> </span>(Duh!!) I got mine from radio wiring, they're very sturdy and thick, which means the tolerance is much higher if you're considering heating problems in your connections which require a large current.</div><div><br /></div><div>To be taken into consideration: We're building jumper cables, which are prone to a lot of mechanical stress (wear and tear) so it'll be nice if you have the type of wires with a groovy and fancy-looking insulation at the end of the wire, which may be salvaged from basically all type of appliances. Something like this: </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsU8J4yMhqFdOiyOxd_IgJXCWESqqjpYyZNHN44iDQecsdY8BDjP2QOyo0kUJw8zVpc1vQldKp6uQLvaUzUHs9Q0_rBxbbtDnlcvzXD2PxhtA-mv7eDFG_GcgEeckwiwCzi5Be2MGa-cQ/s320/Image0743.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523186117405847426" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div>The fancy-looking "grooves" on the wire will be very helpful in making the glue bond between the wire and the clip very strong and durable.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div><i>3. </i><span class="Apple-style-span">Epoxy Glue</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span">:</span> </i>Please view this <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/10/epoxy.html">link</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>The steps are pretty obvious, so I wouldn't want you to waste time reading details which don't matter, but I'll put up a single picture to show how I did it: </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6EaoEAhbtao3GHPJAj8AhWdf9ekbnB6V4vF2r5L6Cd8JHzJ4U4ek-8t0thBdDY-rPkrzlv51kr7Ze32Wq4qimEqNmprzVOg-mbvE9rB0OK4xNOgKMsPhWIbRT6e04S-yL4vfXjFCzWs/s320/assembly.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523203499398637746" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 122px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div>The picture above shows the soldering process (solder sticks pretty properly, don't worry). And a combination of the full-steel clip and the half-plastic half-steel clip is <span class="Apple-style-span">VERY</span> useful for some applications.</div><div><br /></div><div>The picture below are the variations of my construction for other cables:</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZMltiU9Qa-24Qt-2UhiGAIu7dsJQKJTNtTnR6Z3zV4SEfiK_6ReqwvjLOhyphenhyphenz4BnQDYXjdpGGOJ7i-GxBU9Hrtk9RwESfKmTtxWi-Yf-l44ydfAwp8YI0kc6J0YMkMEWP2hCfwvaHJPyk/s320/Others.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523207413909030754" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 124px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span">Description:</span></b></div><div>a: The <span class="Apple-style-span">red</span> highlighted area is the part which will be soldered, note that the wires are wounded around the upper part before putting it to contact with the metal surface of the clip. This aids additional strength of the connection after gluing.</div><div><br /></div><div>b: The next sequence shows the contacts are soldered generously, and the "groovy" part of the fire is fitted into the hole of the clip, which again adds a significant durability to the "weakest link" (yes, in my experience, this is the frustrating part) after the applied glue to the crevices dries and hardens up. </div><div><br /></div><div>c: This picture shows another technique used; I looped the wire around the hole (which is why name tag clips are just the thing for this purpose) and I glued the loose part.</div><div><br /></div><div>After all of this is done, my collection is displayed as follows:</div><div><br /></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPm8opRB6ysrI4YHkZGcPQl_xOtlnBdFuiW-WJWlwHSQyr9csYBqYjrbq5fl2H1-CfOSQtvuV4WTy9tfO-AUnDZLDlr459verxa4QeWClEcz1HTj_LmU_gtTNGQOW0ya6lyk8jkjin_i0/s320/cable+mark+2.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523203492833260626" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 235px; " /></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div>When everything's all said and done...... BOW DOWN!!! You have your own collection of the strongest type of jumper connectors for your electronics projects. Connect it to motors, LEDs (with resistors, I must remind you people), breadboards (stick a male connector into it and clip to the revealed part), and so on.</div><div><br /></div><div>I know this article is pretty light and simple, but I find that these cables provide to be more than a chain to the missing link (intended there) which is called: convenience.</div><div><br /></div><div>InsyaAllah, may God be pleased with us for living our lives trying to spend less (by improvising and recycling more) and use the money for better purposes.</div><div><br /></div><div>Vizier87</div>Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-27155555167448164682010-07-04T03:20:00.007+08:002010-07-07T06:44:12.509+08:00For the Electrical Department's consideration (Lecturers and Students alike)<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Assalamualaikum</span> to all Vortex <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Electrica</span> fans.</div><div><br /></div><div>One of the problems faced when we, as electronics/electrical students do projects is that very little practical environment pervades within the department. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#009900;">Aside the fact that we all have laboratories, an electronics store to distribute components with the permission of supervisors, some geeks carrying around toolboxes with some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">perfboard</span> circuits inside</span>, there is still so much to learn regarding electronics. </div><div><br /></div><div>Kudos to the current Head of Department of Electrical Engineering for making changes to the department, for a lot has changed for the better then, and it is time to move on to further our experience in doing circuits and introduce some tweaks as well.</div><div><br /></div><div>So how do we start?</div><div><br /></div><div>For ambitious students, a full fledged tutorial on PIC <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">microcontrollers</span> is the best way to go around it. However we must account for students who are only willing to do simple projects which will make them appreciate the beauty of electronics. And most students are unwilling to spend much money on buying components.</div><div><br /></div><div>I am not saying my suggestions are the best, but for a lot of subjects, very valuable experiences can be provided to students who do some projects which pertain to the subject itself. Electrical students are divided into four, in my experience:</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#33FF33;">1. The ones who just want to finish their degree and nothing more</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#33FF33;">2. The ones interested in doing projects in hardware form (electronics, power, etc.)</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#33FF33;">3. The ones interested in software/programming</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#33FF33;">4. The ones who are not interested in anything.</span></div><div><br /></div><div>The second and third will be our discussion.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is the layout of <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?2jjij4ymvmm"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Universiti</span> Malaya's Electrical Engineering curriculum</a> (download the file for a complete listing) which can be used as a medium to do projects:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">First year</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">1. Electronics 1: </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Construct a temperature sensor using an IN4148 diode and some transistors, best marks <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>goes to the ones who manage to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">linearize</span> the output of Temperature versus Voltage (and <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>the <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>hardware can be passed for further research on low-cost sensors). Should cost only <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>RM10.00 max.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Drive a relay using different transistors, a report can be done with each team using <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>different transistors, response time, backward EMF study due to relay chatter, how to <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>suppress relay chatter, etc. Costs perhaps RM5.00</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build a bridge rectifier (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Reaaaaaalllllllly</span> frustrating when <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">EE</span> students don't know how to <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>use a damn diode, OKAY!!!) for AC signals. The best marks will be given to the ones with <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>lowest drop-out voltage, and fastest response time, with lowest ripple, and so on. Cost? <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>perhaps RM3.....</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build a H-Bridge to control motors using transistors. Best marks to the ones who manages <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>lowest drop-out voltage, highest input/output current ratio, efficiency, etc. Each team will <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>use different transistors, zero marks to duplicate circuits. Cost?.. I think RM15.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">2. C++ Programming:</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Change it to C programming, and let 1st year students blink an LED or two at the generic <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>PIC main boards. Using a PIC12F and some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">perfboard</span>, the circuit can be completed in one <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>day, costs at most RM 10. More advanced programming? Drive a motor speed using <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">PWM</span>. <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>More? Interrupt. More? At your discretion.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">3. Digital Systems</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build logic gates using diodes/transistors. Each team will be assigned to different types of <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>diodes, and different gates as well. Cost? Less than RM5, assured.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Learn to use Flip-flop <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">ICs</span>/Logic Gate <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">ICs</span> and do some applications. Cost? Less than RM15.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div><div><br /></div><div>....And so on. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">2<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">nd</span> year</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">4. Electronics 2: </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Amplify signals from the heart using any type of sensor. Cost: RM 20. Best marks go to the <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>ones who manage the best accuracy compared to a standard ECG. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Make different types of filters/<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">instrumentational</span> amplifier using op-amps (SAY NO TO <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>THE LOUSY 741 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">ICs</span>!!!) Cost: RM 5</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Process signals from various sources using a software in a PC. Like quantifying heartbeat <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>signals, bird calls, light intensities, temperature, and so on.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build an oscillator using op-amps.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>.....And other millions of op-amp projects.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">5. Instrumentation</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Start using <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">PICs</span> to drive motors, detect readings using ADC, display signals, use <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>temperature signals, strain gauges, range sensors like IR diodes, RF modules (315 or 418 <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>MHz ones), drive relays to operate a 30V motor, for instance... and so on. This project has <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>most options actually. Cost: From RM 20-100. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">6. Electric Machines</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build motors... Now this is very fun. Different motors for different teams, so students can <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>build stepper motors, DC brush motors, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">brushless</span> motors, relay switches, alarms, etc, <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>anything which requires electromagnetism and mechanical motion. We managed to <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>introduce this culture during our 2<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">nd</span> year. Voila!!</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">3rd Year</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">7. Electromagnetic Theory</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build RF modules. Longer ranging, the better. Give some restrictions: Doesn't introduce <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>interference to the existing signals (otherwise it'll jam things up), low power, and so on. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Build inductive current sensors, like the ones used in Power Electronics Labs. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">8. Microprocessors</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-NOW.... proceed to using higher quality <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">PICs</span> and give 'em any kind of project which <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>involves sensors, robots and whatnot. Too many projects are on the 'net. Build a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">frickin</span>' <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">Asimo</span> if they want.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">9. Energy Conversion & Power Transmission</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Again, we manage to be the pioneers of projects involving generators. We can settle down <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>with the DC/AC generators, or also explore Solar Cells, Wind Power Turbines, Thermal <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Energy, and <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>so on. </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"></span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Example: Make a portable battery charger using a small water tank which is heated up <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>to propel a turbine to charge a cellphone. Campers can use it when they're going in jungles, <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>so when they make bonfires, they also can charge their cellphones. Also, with solar cells too.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">10. Feedback Control Systems:</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>-Aha.. there is so much we can do around here. I suggest: Build a coffee-maker using <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>stepper motors, which need to be modeled using Laplace/Fourier/Z Transforms. This<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>utilizes transient responses of the motors as well. Usage of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">PICs</span> required.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"></span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Also, we can build a simple pick-and-place robots using <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">PICs</span> and servo motors too.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#3366FF;">11. Power Electronics:</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Build your own buck, boost, buck-boost, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">Cuk</span>, and so on Regulators. Is it so difficult? We'll <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>never know if we don't try. The problem is many <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">EE</span> students don't even understand the <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>meaning of Power Electronics.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>There is one very interesting circuit:</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2327/1828270262_b76c867954.jpg" border="0" alt="" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 500px; height: 293px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"></span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>It demonstrates the usability of a nearly dead cell to power up an LED! Therefore it 'boosts' <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>the voltage, demonstrating the significance of power electronics and boost circuits. This <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>project can be assigned EASILY!!! So why do we hesitate in giving students such simple <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>projects? </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">In conclusion, look at how much projects can be done with just Googling around. To the ones who think it ain't important, I'll just ask one simple question: What do you remember during lectures? Even for a geek like me, I remember nothing except jokes from lecturers!! BUT I remember nearly every detail of projects done by our Team <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">VORTEX <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">ELECTRICA</span></span>, and it is the memory which made me value the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">experience</span> in the University. I'm sure all the other members felt the same way.</span></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope future Malaysian students who take up <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">EE</span> in any university will ask their lecturers to give projects like these. They're fun and most importantly, life is a lot about memories, and this is an experience which will be hard to be obtained in the times you are already working.</div><div><br /></div><div>And oh, if you're going to bitch about cost of the projects, remember that you have spent more on food in a single day than most of these projects! So to the lecturers out there (if you're reading this) just give the projects to them and you'll be surprised how capable Malaysian students are actually! This SHOULD be the main part of the continuous assessment for the students. Honestly, I'd put 30% on projects, and 10% on tests/assignments. The rest is exams, and it's fine by me. To me, all that mattered during my tenure (academically speaking) in UM are three things: Kind lecturers who demonstrates "formidability", the three projects in hardware form assigned by lecturers themselves, and finally our final year project. The rest will be very scantily remembered, sorry to say, even the labs and equipments don't mean much to me except the times I actually needed it.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Vizier87 is signing out.<br /><br /></div>Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-3898254740261773152010-06-01T01:00:00.010+08:002010-06-01T03:27:03.483+08:00Solid-State Weather Systems Electronics: Part 2>> Acoustic Disdrometer Rain SensorsHi guys.. I've just finished my thesis project documentation, now I'm taking a break in my home. This is the next part from my final year project in this blog, a continuation from the article: <span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/02/solid-state-weather-systems-electronics.html">Solid-State Weather Systems Electronics: Part 1</a></span><h3 class="post-title entry-title"> </h3> <div class="post-header"> </div> Where the first article has the least difficulty regarding detection of three weather parameters: Ambient temperature, humidity and Barometric Pressure.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 102, 102);">---------------This article has a moderate difficulty level in construction.--------------</span><br /><br /></div>Remember that the documentation regarding this article is pretty scarce, since most of the sensors out there are tested using million-dollar equipments, therefore they are patented technologies. I'm just doing this project<span style="color: rgb(51, 204, 0);"> from a hobbyist perspective</span>... so if you manage to build an industrially-challenging one, good for you! References in the internet regarding rain sensors can be done by yourselves, but I'm gonna put forward ORIGINAL research and WORK done here... and the RESULTS are all original as well... So hopefully we're not part of useless Google searches regarding <span style="font-style: italic;">DIY Rain Sensors.</span><br /><br />So.. We have come to the next parameter, which is pretty complex to process, but the hardware required is pretty simple. Yep, we're gonna do a <span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">rain check here</span>.. So what is the importance of reading rain? Not important at all, if you are a common guy, but it may have a lot of significance to a farmer who wants to monitor his crops for farming precision. <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Remember that agriculture is a very-very important field in Malaysia, where a paddy field in Kedah,Malaysia will certainly benefit from precision in rain-reading, Insya-Allah.</span><br /><br />First things first- how do you sense rain? How do you know if it's a torrent or a drizzle out there when you're sitting in your home snoozing or drinking milk tea? You know the answer, but it is difficult to answer it using technical terms. So I'll do my best to describe what I'm doing here to a layman.<br /><br />There are several techniques used, apart from the standard but disgustingly bulky rain gauges (if you don't know about rain gauges you can do a quick wiki <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rain_gauge">here</a>.)<br /><br />As for rain detection, the following electronics solid-state designs are briefed after processing the 'net's worth of info. <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">NOTE: There are surprisingly very little amount of documented projects regarding DIY rain sensing.. so the combination of info is siphoned into a useful collection of info, hopefully... :)</span><br /><br />i) <span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Drop count</span>: Water drips from an orifice that produces drops of known size which are<br />usually counted optically (which means the usage of optical sensors like Infrared, or light intensity fluctuation detection>> <span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">How to imagine the function: It's like seeing a mutilated image of a person at the back of an aquarium, since the water produces aberrations in the light... oh well that clears THAT</span>.). This design is good for light rain, responds quickly to the changes, but requires a reservoir be maintained at a certain level. Ain't good if you're measuring light rain.<br /><br />ii) <span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Optical rain gauge</span>: This technique uses scintillation effects to detect/calculate rainfall. This<br />is an electronic solution which is very pricy, since optics requires a lot of complex analysis. This<br />design is good for rates, but it is easily deceived by fog and mist. Used by Malaysian weather researchers or whatnot MOSTI... The concept is similar to the one used in the drop count. Xenso (A company making sensors) sells them at $99 (RM 300) to 'em weather guys in Malaysia.<br /><br />iii) <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Self-siphoning capacitance gauge</span>: This contraption uses a collection tube with a level<br />gauge, which is self emptying. This is a good method for measuring rainfall accumulation, which not good for light rains. Hard to DIY. No explanation needed since I don't understand it anyway.<br /><br />iv)<span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Doppler detection</span>: This method uses reflected microwaves to determine intensity. This is an electronic solution which requires a high level of technology, meaning high cost issues. Even I could find much documentation regarding this thingy. Again, I still don't understand it too.<br /><br />v) <span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Ultrasonic sensors</span>: This method is also an electronic solution, and also very pricy. It<br />measures rain by detecting the interference signals generated by the raindrops in an array of<br />ultrasonic network systems. EXTREMELY hard to DIY. And again, I don't understand the details much too. :(<br /><br />vi) <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Disdrometers</span>: AHA!! Bingo!! This concept uses impact of rain, where rainfall is measured by detecting the raindrop impacts via a piezoelectric sensor, which produces a voltage proportional to the volume of the raindrop. Used in the <a href="http://shop.weatherzone.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=98">$3850 WXT510 Weather Transmitter</a> (You're a fool to not sense a hint of sarcasm in this sentence)<br /><br />Heh heh.. But this last option above proves to be the easiest to reverse-engineer and DIY, since <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Vortex Electrica</span> is ALL about saving money and still being able to do kick-ass projects!! Credit needs to be given to Rolf Hut in his <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-acoustic-rain-gauge-disdrometer/">Instructables project.</a><br />The details regarding the electronics and techniques of detection are original, from <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Vortex Electrica though.</span><br /><br />So.... what are DISDROMETERS? <span style="font-style: italic;">It is a meter which detects impact</span>, simply put. A raindrop has impact, therefore a disdrometer reads it. The simplest analogy I can give is: Imagine a microphone being tapped by your finger. What does it produce at the speakers' end? TAP! TAP! TAP! Similarly, when you're sitting in your room, you know whether it is raining heavily or not. Now... to make it analyzable and quantifiable... we're gonna start on the construction:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: rgb(204, 204, 255); font-weight: bold;">STEPS IN BUILDING A DISDROMETER:</span><br /></div><br />1: You'll need:<br /><br />a. A plastic CD/DVD platter (or something flat, take your pick)<br />b. A piezoelectric transducer, like shown here:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.exfac.com/aussie_bray/Hydro_Images/Piezo-Buzzer.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 195px;" src="http://www.exfac.com/aussie_bray/Hydro_Images/Piezo-Buzzer.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">......which can be scrounged from broken telephones, or broken clocks or.. anything which produces monophonic sounds.</span><br /><br />c. Some electronic components, which are pretty simple:<br />a) an op-amp IC like the LM358 or LM741.<br />b) A potentiometer<br />c) A schottky diode<br />d) A donut perfboard.. of course.<br /><br />2. Glue the piezo transducer to the CD platter using <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">EPOXY GLUE</span>.. very important. The one I did looks like this:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KWiVcmvHMwdRBlbUs4rArdlFIjV7LURqMytbbCFaaINONvW3GJG6qajpjXxRB-RERFiAuA9bf-3dIut5o7VnhRVcFM1vepiAGs1s7XjEH5BgTqNlwTQegTKFf3vX0hBzEP28EcID2YU/s1600/disdrometer.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 317px; height: 230px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5KWiVcmvHMwdRBlbUs4rArdlFIjV7LURqMytbbCFaaINONvW3GJG6qajpjXxRB-RERFiAuA9bf-3dIut5o7VnhRVcFM1vepiAGs1s7XjEH5BgTqNlwTQegTKFf3vX0hBzEP28EcID2YU/s320/disdrometer.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5477500849585954850" border="0" /></a><br />3. Construct the rest of the electronics according to this picture:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjvW6X8ZbgStJ1ZW5tJx2lekKyfuGzTWckWsjkTeGGceF1iOOKOGiqfCcfR-7kXewGxIm6rghjP7qF-OyY67rNZMTXGi89XHUbC8tX9mlIYGJ14faAYp2LSn55smm_eztILtMh3icW3o/s1600/disdro-schematic.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 367px; height: 384px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjvW6X8ZbgStJ1ZW5tJx2lekKyfuGzTWckWsjkTeGGceF1iOOKOGiqfCcfR-7kXewGxIm6rghjP7qF-OyY67rNZMTXGi89XHUbC8tX9mlIYGJ14faAYp2LSn55smm_eztILtMh3icW3o/s320/disdro-schematic.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5477504396882540002" border="0" /></a><br />This is called <span style="color: rgb(51, 204, 0);">signal conditioning... </span>where the output spike is isolated from the rest of electronics by freewheeling the negative spike voltage produced by the piezo transducer using an IN5817 <span style="color: rgb(51, 204, 0);">Schottky diode, </span>where it is a diode with a forward voltage of 01-0.2 V only, where a lot of op-amps can only withstand -0.2 inverse voltage at it's non-inverting input, and also the signal is amplified by the gain setting using a single potentiometer. If you don't understand, never mind, just build the circuit. :P<br /><br /><br />4. The finished product in my project looks like this:<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dQnXNinDcaZA0QJqLzjnRn35Qsofqwoc6pT6dRdQmtKNt3MR9DgX5OSaO4yZnpm9gwgDUH7y9B9ZK84yKX7eqfNvi4DR0-EAL_wO94gaXua5KZSqUcmOxXUF7chm9AQ1PBvstX_HSqk/s1600/Image0483.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dQnXNinDcaZA0QJqLzjnRn35Qsofqwoc6pT6dRdQmtKNt3MR9DgX5OSaO4yZnpm9gwgDUH7y9B9ZK84yKX7eqfNvi4DR0-EAL_wO94gaXua5KZSqUcmOxXUF7chm9AQ1PBvstX_HSqk/s320/Image0483.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5477502617400105778" border="0" /></a><br /><br />5. Now, you can at least observe the output from a location by placing a voltmeter between the output terminals of the circuit.<span style="font-style: italic;"> The output is with regard with the raindrop volume, the higher the volume of the raindrop, the higher the output.</span><br /><br />Quantification and calibration techniques will be dependent on the transmission of the data to a PC, where we can utilize the full power of a PC computer to do an acoustic analysis of the signals of the raindrops. We'll cover the data conditioning in further articles, since it is a fully different entity of hardware which needs to be discussed, which is also pretty complex.<br /><br />Conceptually, <span style="color: rgb(51, 204, 0);">the area under the graph depicts the raindrop volume</span>, shown below here is me testing my disdrometer (The graph can be predicted according to the typical output shown in the oscilloscope):<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmda_T75IorHmyy3OMOc47r16oaNndXhFrpP7mtHcBt5DT5Z1yLLo3Muytuqo519JduD9cy4FHwlurMFLkEXw65g5GTmppYb887Oj_ChvdqIUgkPaH2D-MCdGXM3sfAygXoAqo6n2lCrg/s1600/test.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 253px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmda_T75IorHmyy3OMOc47r16oaNndXhFrpP7mtHcBt5DT5Z1yLLo3Muytuqo519JduD9cy4FHwlurMFLkEXw65g5GTmppYb887Oj_ChvdqIUgkPaH2D-MCdGXM3sfAygXoAqo6n2lCrg/s320/test.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5477510621253397506" border="0" /></a><br />The cost of the network is only around <span style="color: rgb(255, 204, 0);">RM4.00</span>... impressively cheap if you're daring enough.<br />For now, enjoy seeing the output which comes out when rain hits the drum!!<br />In the following article, we will uncover my most difficult part, which are <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">solid state wind sensors, or anemometers,</span> also built by myself, also with not much documentation in the 'net.<br /><br />See ya all real soon, InsyaAllah.<br /><br /><br />Regards,<br />Vizier87Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-27658768047109752552010-05-19T18:03:00.002+08:002013-02-27T12:21:54.228+08:00ABOUT US.ELECTRONIC WASTE???<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNP66Is9YZ6n5B0eurjVQOKShw26dJiMQqzSThqKCjCwaBCD-ewV2RtLxmE_VJ0I83us-n6g-nauPnnRRsZQDvMnfqDAaVqXXY859A4jQHvG1t1GsBpO5wRk-sTXqgHzWEydr54arGlOGX/s1600-h/FEATURE-ewaste-300_tcm18-87768.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316335858641493474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNP66Is9YZ6n5B0eurjVQOKShw26dJiMQqzSThqKCjCwaBCD-ewV2RtLxmE_VJ0I83us-n6g-nauPnnRRsZQDvMnfqDAaVqXXY859A4jQHvG1t1GsBpO5wRk-sTXqgHzWEydr54arGlOGX/s400/FEATURE-ewaste-300_tcm18-87768.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
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Are you an electrical engineering student in Malaysia?</div>
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Do you feel that engineering education is a waste of time when you will not be using much of what you've learned in school after entering the industry?<br />
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Therefore this blog invites all Malaysian bloggers who publish articles regarding electronics/electrical/ software engineering to join this blog and contribute your unique projects.<br />
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This blog concentrates on simple projects which are done with unique approaches, so that we don't become part of the dilution of the information in the 'net. Put simply, you shouldn't be finding us as part of a useless blog link after Googling for "motors" or "PIC" or "comparators"... You will find some info in this blog unique which is not featured in other articles.<br />
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REMEMBER: This is a hobbyist corner. Anyone interested in building their own RC car, for instance, can refer to this blog if provided. The terminologies used here are simplified and explained at its best for a layman, hopefully for you guys (Or gals?)<br />
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Here is a short description of Vortex Electrica's current members (more will join, hopefully):<br />
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Fakhruddin @ Deathclaw, specializes in Software development and will be feeding us info and news regarding programming for software gung-hos! A drum enthusiast as well.<br />
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<a href="http://www.electro-tech-online.com/">Electro-tech</a>'s Halim @ Vizier87, from <a href="http://photonics.um.edu.my/" target="_blank">Photonics Research Group</a>, will be giving insights on improvising construction of mechanical and electronics' networks... his eccentricity includes one rule: 95% percent of stuff used to construct gizmos must come from scrap appliances, a strict Recycletronica.<br />
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Shahril @ Beautifulmind, specializes in electronics and PICs and other things as well... He is also plays guitar during his free time besides doing projects. His articles will be focused in a combination of PIC and electronics projects, done in our own way.<br />
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All the articles in this blog are not to compete with other companies, but an expression on how we came around and jumping on stepping stones to achieve our own mastery in our fields regarding Electrical Engineering Curriculum in Malaysia, which is not very easy. We hope to share our knowledge to pave an easier way to realizing projects and inspire future generations to take this course seriously.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Enjoy reading 'em! And please comment constructively too. :)</span></span></h3>
Contact either: abdulhalimpoh@yahoo.com.sg , mashaari87@yahoo.com.sg, fakhruddin087@gmail.com</div>
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vortexelectricahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00055961513490110863noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-67493226718987843442010-04-30T22:53:00.000+08:002011-10-31T23:00:51.294+08:00GENERAL IDEA.<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;">GENERAL</span></span><br /><div style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);font-size:130%;"><span style=" color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;"><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/05/internship.html">INTERNSHIP</a><br /><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/10/roots-of-vortex-electrica-ve.html">The Roots of Vortex Electrica (VE)</a><br /><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/02/verdict-silver.html">Verdict: Silver!</a><br /><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/03/vortex-electrica-dominion.html">Vortex Electrica Dominion</a><br /><a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2010/07/for-electrical-departments.html">For the Electrical Department's consideration(Lecturers and Students alike)</a></span></span></div>vortexelectricahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00055961513490110863noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-32680430236477496192010-04-04T14:30:00.023+08:002011-03-13T00:34:56.429+08:00Construct your own Electric Generator!Establishing Server Connection to VE headquarters......<br />.<br />.<br />.<br />.<br />.<br />Connection secured.<br /><br />Hi guys, (or gals?) this is an overdue article on our third year project on <span style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);">Energy Conversion and Power Transmission</span>, by our lecturer, who was our also our Electrical Machines lecturer. I figured out that now I have some time to impart the depths of the <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Vortex Electrica</span> secrets which should be shared. Since our DIY motor project has gained a reputation with our lecturer, he was inspired to tell us to build a generator. <span style="font-style: italic;">The VE bloodline is again revived!!</span> So here we are.<br /><br />The most satisfying aspect of building a generator is you can see a form of energy that can't be harnessed properly, and it transfers itself into something that can be properly used (like charging a battery from wind flow, an so on). See the video:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzHANHMuCjR09_pnXa3bq0m77ETz3OlyyHQXkvxKxqdBohxnPvGKLHkxpyWCZR0FbGyH6h7xaEL-TO7GbzfYg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Output Demonstration</span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Why did I post the video first?</span> This is just for you guys who are<span style="font-style: italic;"> skeptical </span>at our product. So we'll just impart it all for you to see. This generator generates 30V at around 3500 rpm (revolutions per minute) with no-load (that means the terminals are directly fed to a voltmeter/multimeter. So how are you gonna build it? The concept is too simple since you guys can also see the link regarding our DIY motor: <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/04/construct-your-own-motor.html">Here</a><br /><br />Basic concepts and physics regarding generators can be read from the wiki here:<br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generators">Concepts on generators</a><br />.... and please read 'em properly if you're a complete newbie.<br /><br />Anyway, here's a simple diagram on our construction (this diagram is property of <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Vortex Electrica</span>, references must be with citations) :<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNOr1FJASLnbq9vS087XeQoQvjqjhmabub0VXS1D67x7xmooEJGPECs-8CVyK5PkiyDdMiFNigOsXJ6SRhTIlBhaAqIUQylL6l0gfO649KmhMKfPqCvhXgJXsdAU2IZ9dJ6MbKF5CbCc/s1600/Diagram.bmp"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 453px; height: 298px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNOr1FJASLnbq9vS087XeQoQvjqjhmabub0VXS1D67x7xmooEJGPECs-8CVyK5PkiyDdMiFNigOsXJ6SRhTIlBhaAqIUQylL6l0gfO649KmhMKfPqCvhXgJXsdAU2IZ9dJ6MbKF5CbCc/s320/Diagram.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456181089945465602" border="0" /></a><br />From the diagram, (study it carefully!!) The construction is pretty simple, and saves a lot of time regarding analysis. The reason we used this design (which is not the best, since industrial generators use more complicated but efficient windings) is to save you from the trouble of winding and re-winding it due to mistakes. Trust me, the biggest problem in construction of this thing comes from winding the coils, which may be up to thousands of repeated windings. You'll not want to unwind 1000 windings after discovering that the generator has problems regarding orientation or discontinuity of the coils. The details regarding winding configuration will be covered in the following sections.<br /><br />Here comes the important part: Construction.<br />What are the ingredients we used? Here you are:<br /><br />1. Broken hard-drives:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOw8imQARyqSv-mG5ZL04pwfDWaRoCoxh5Bia0kpGOlFZ6lCSsfwqwLPx3X59XJGb3H_cwNvVSWlEqCd213o8uRo8hPFYq3ypgWmz8P7vFniQSvQSzjr_Uc6gi4NwxkOUNyuPWD4prHFM/s1600/Image0018.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOw8imQARyqSv-mG5ZL04pwfDWaRoCoxh5Bia0kpGOlFZ6lCSsfwqwLPx3X59XJGb3H_cwNvVSWlEqCd213o8uRo8hPFYq3ypgWmz8P7vFniQSvQSzjr_Uc6gi4NwxkOUNyuPWD4prHFM/s320/Image0018.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456185618664743874" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3xQFakZFiDQaqh7FCHV-sctcCc9GzMJWSE_MGAx7AdQSjOguaJlSxNE5p1vsY1mCTEzzFbEhmJJNpzdRENQtZA-DAYdJ4GFvM37uxl71ZtdgVkZzrKsGGk3yBPGXGD6ZF7zHwx0VO4vk/s1600/Image010.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 256px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3xQFakZFiDQaqh7FCHV-sctcCc9GzMJWSE_MGAx7AdQSjOguaJlSxNE5p1vsY1mCTEzzFbEhmJJNpzdRENQtZA-DAYdJ4GFvM37uxl71ZtdgVkZzrKsGGk3yBPGXGD6ZF7zHwx0VO4vk/s320/Image010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456185607405218306" border="0" /></a><br />We'll need the permanent magnets from these hard-drives, which are <span style="color: rgb(204, 51, 204);">NEODYMIUM</span> magnets. These magnets are the strongest magnets ever produced in the industry. A good documentation regarding hard-drive magnets can be seen in this link: <a href="http://www.reuk.co.uk/Hard-Disk-Drive-Magnets-For-Wind-Turbines.htm">Neodymium magnets</a><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">A very good tip: You can get them virtually for free or for very cheap prices if you haggle the prices properly in some shops selling computer hardware, where they usually keep scrap hard-drives for scrap metal, but they'd gladly sell them to you for RM2-RM5 apiece.</span><br /><br />2. A non-magnetic metal shaft (can be found in CD-drives)<br /><br />3. Copper coils is pretty easy to obtain cheaply, from <span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">broken transformers</span> and so on, but we bought CRT field coils (from old TVs) for RM10 from a shop selling CRTs. You can get yours for free if you have broken TVs in your attic/store. Haha!!<br /><br />Here's some pictures:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0BlYInzjnFMR5-Vqe4bHeqCromkdIMEWstUvPj3MVgw9HH1Z_MxbayGhU1yIkwyskxeNY6F5fE8Jwirkt3P6pbzTwJssz_0UJ_BsFGqQg5p6rwCUeJ9I-GD690wfhALvHGNwehwoKL8/s1600/Image0035.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0BlYInzjnFMR5-Vqe4bHeqCromkdIMEWstUvPj3MVgw9HH1Z_MxbayGhU1yIkwyskxeNY6F5fE8Jwirkt3P6pbzTwJssz_0UJ_BsFGqQg5p6rwCUeJ9I-GD690wfhALvHGNwehwoKL8/s320/Image0035.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456187834245314994" border="0" /></a>CRT field coils : RM10, undismantled<br /></div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQSaQgMUGR9aJhXhjrrvRNLd451TTQTyfoMlF5iGQjw4zSTV7E3gfbeh4D1XbPo9fxc_eHvj1TZQfQg8gswXR3CHFQ4XI5b1CByeaQWntJcmUwJozbVzPLN0r_YDXTlBVa91c_Zs-WcE/s1600/Image0040.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQSaQgMUGR9aJhXhjrrvRNLd451TTQTyfoMlF5iGQjw4zSTV7E3gfbeh4D1XbPo9fxc_eHvj1TZQfQg8gswXR3CHFQ4XI5b1CByeaQWntJcmUwJozbVzPLN0r_YDXTlBVa91c_Zs-WcE/s320/Image0040.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456187843505438882" border="0" /></a>Extracted copper coils<br /></div><br /><br />It takes great patience to extricate the coils, which are bonded together with resin, but you'll manage, InsyaAllah.<br /><br />Now, the basic ingredients are covered. Now, we'll proceed to construction, where the other materials will be described as we go along.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Construction:</span><br />A) First Sequence:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPTpVmnY6gQRKGi_fQEUFkTuR4YXel8T1nLfs-gqDCx73tqiQoDr8tU0laoCShBrsvyrIruutermBUuMWxIbCz3Dwb1pjUr0JSxwrs7Z8vNBMFKH0iXEu65i8jMtynG-S4dOakib0_VU/s1600/Framework.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHPTpVmnY6gQRKGi_fQEUFkTuR4YXel8T1nLfs-gqDCx73tqiQoDr8tU0laoCShBrsvyrIruutermBUuMWxIbCz3Dwb1pjUr0JSxwrs7Z8vNBMFKH0iXEu65i8jMtynG-S4dOakib0_VU/s320/Framework.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456213951830451314" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPHJc_eDEOAH_FNIRF8urXn2nGFjdpMPAkoMnCJPd0Hovaje3XbayAfJlfjCoLTnGuaSXrdpcETlqdC68h8r98Sl4wpJW5vjGTyaQmPzh7Jcc9ybdjJUhuKPCEPeuoYz06vv0sp9EdFo/s1600/Framework.JPG"><br /></a>Framework for the generator<br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Description:</span><br />1. Neodymium magnets on brackets<br /><br />2. Separated magnets, that's how those magnets look like<br /><br />3. Halved for polarity isolation (see the documentation regarding Neodymium magnets on the link above. <span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">In our case, since cutting it in half using non-magnetic blades is not an option, we used a steel hacksaw to make a dent at two positions for weak stress points, then carefully snap 'em in half using your bare hands, they ARE that brittle, so make the dents sparingly)</span><br /><br />4. Armature built using the non-magnetic shaft (usually you can get 'em from toys/CD/DVD drives) we held together the magnets with the tubular structure using <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">epoxy glue</span> (A VERY IMPORTANT COMPONENT!!!). The white tubular structures are actually ballpoint pen casings. Very strong and reliable structural material!<br /><br />5. Materials for the generator frame (we omitted the metal screws for they produce a very large reluctance in the armature movement.)<br /><br />6. The basic framework completed, note the neodymium magnets' orientation, please use this configuration.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">B. Windings:</span><br />The pictures here are simpler, just to show the coiling progress:<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUeKeECifQNz2LtqxHIZw2QH66uNuMdR5MV0AwMBYYkz4-4tLcpas0xVGWbuLGrqpRhr-RJw7IXN8zNCXYSM_aUxIX1xrDm_3XQnGkKYDfaLxptBIIaL1PZKzDirgY5rCXPGk56aT65Y/s1600/orientation.bmp"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioUeKeECifQNz2LtqxHIZw2QH66uNuMdR5MV0AwMBYYkz4-4tLcpas0xVGWbuLGrqpRhr-RJw7IXN8zNCXYSM_aUxIX1xrDm_3XQnGkKYDfaLxptBIIaL1PZKzDirgY5rCXPGk56aT65Y/s320/orientation.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5457475780016960482" border="0" /></a>Winding orientation: Two planes of separate winding (Singular winding shown in the figure is for simplification, you'll need to wind as much as you can for both planes SEPARATELY, combined after completing the space provided by the generator framework.)<br /></div><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbTZL-FAPSNCksUIK8isa3szBoy_CboJD7plokLb2F3OKrcCzKhl28TvsfgzZbiwB83GgJHzMucdbvXR0Brx9yf49elMP7qKcGsnQ0bv7WzZXw2eKBugQawSwcIoUUuMdSBLrc9OjzWQ/s1600/coiling.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 289px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbTZL-FAPSNCksUIK8isa3szBoy_CboJD7plokLb2F3OKrcCzKhl28TvsfgzZbiwB83GgJHzMucdbvXR0Brx9yf49elMP7qKcGsnQ0bv7WzZXw2eKBugQawSwcIoUUuMdSBLrc9OjzWQ/s320/coiling.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456212644853824434" border="0" /></a> <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Description:</span><br /><br />1. Coiling like normal: Remember, the coils are separate between the two planes we used to maximize the space usage. Combination between the two planes are done after the winding is completed.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">REMEMBER: We coiled one plane, then the other after completing each layer alternatively, this way the coils are uniform (imagine this like doin' hamburgers, you don't make two big layers, you put thin layers of goodies but lots of it alternatively, like bread,meat, salad, dressing, then fried egg, then dressing back, salad, meat and bread in the bottom)</span><br /><br />2. Hmmm... are we done? The CRT coils are still abundant.<br /><br />3. We added an extra nozzle (the white plastic thingy) to increase the winding space and to avoid the coils from colliding with shaft.<br /><br />4. Covered some of the parts with tape to hold the windings in place, they tend to loosen after a 2 cm layer worth of coils.<br /><br />5. Looks like an egg ain't it? That's what we called it, "The Golden Egg"... the thing can roll like one too. Hahaha!!<br /><br />6. VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you test the output from the coils after completing a number of thin layers. Just directly connect an LED to the terminals, if there is no output you'll just have to unwind a small number of windings rather than unwinding the whole damn thing.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">C: Finalization</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5RMu1QXBWHW4rLmMBDnozpWwvOzxyc4-VakV4tG3DnOHAV8Pe0xcMOdJdqKUOm99Ga2z5hYLZkyQxyKornZHswJLAEwlwWd3xVsO2LT7OJH43ZLHqAcUWWH9kJvHuF-_QOGs0dX1EC8/s1600/finalized.bmp"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk5RMu1QXBWHW4rLmMBDnozpWwvOzxyc4-VakV4tG3DnOHAV8Pe0xcMOdJdqKUOm99Ga2z5hYLZkyQxyKornZHswJLAEwlwWd3xVsO2LT7OJH43ZLHqAcUWWH9kJvHuF-_QOGs0dX1EC8/s320/finalized.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456222920887480866" border="0" /></a>Finalization on Structure and Testing<br /></div><br /><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Description:</span><br />1. Covered with electrical tape to rigidify the fuselage<br /><br />2. A presentable platform, using plastic frames from the CRT and some other scraps, held together using screws and <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">epoxy glue</span>.<br /><br />3. Testing the output by connecting the generator shaft to a shaft of a DC motor.<br /><br />4. The outputs are indicated using LCD display (Special division of programming of the PIC by Mr. Fakhruddin (Deathclaw)<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Alhamdulillah</span>, the result is extremely satisfying as we've managed to produce the prototype properly and met the objectives with the best output/efficiency (30V DC output for us, other teams got 3V at most, smallest weight/volume and weight/output power ratio also).<br /><br />Both the outputs are rectified using our own Bridge Rectifiers, each windings got one. Both the rectifiers are connected in series to produce a combined DC output:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTRBbc9Puvr72gq4a3T7xN5wF-G5p6iZ9otuDRAhsVUVNmrXaDp7KO3KGIt5wXD79RO7XmWe5UBSUbjMdJxorpOhvXg_J8WzjkAN_MIUQjNdXzcP7tYTln5-iv5-E8Ew4uX0o9CbeI0Q/s1600/VRectifier.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 204px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTRBbc9Puvr72gq4a3T7xN5wF-G5p6iZ9otuDRAhsVUVNmrXaDp7KO3KGIt5wXD79RO7XmWe5UBSUbjMdJxorpOhvXg_J8WzjkAN_MIUQjNdXzcP7tYTln5-iv5-E8Ew4uX0o9CbeI0Q/s320/VRectifier.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456231291641331682" border="0" /></a>Vortex Rectifier Circuit Diagram<br /><br />This is the final picture of the presented prototype:<br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzqWidGMNkvz0XT5ih9gwzvUqzsC7z2OLyC8xZfl7d_mAzxcnhpoOg_hwMeS8syOxRUWFUU_PxsHj0nyQ50p7CfzSJ_3ibT5mv3MZAQ5y17v-NPqQ4MTV8D0RRw4eW9_lcWMXYtgX56I/s1600/Final+Form.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 238px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzqWidGMNkvz0XT5ih9gwzvUqzsC7z2OLyC8xZfl7d_mAzxcnhpoOg_hwMeS8syOxRUWFUU_PxsHj0nyQ50p7CfzSJ_3ibT5mv3MZAQ5y17v-NPqQ4MTV8D0RRw4eW9_lcWMXYtgX56I/s320/Final+Form.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456239421529058738" border="0" /></a><br /><br />All the personnels are involved in the completion of this project:<br />1. Abdul Halim Poh (Vizier87), Electromechanical Systems<br />2. Shahrilhafiz (beautifulmind), Power Electronics<br />3. Fakhruddin (Deathclaw), Programming<br />4. Nazmi Zulkifli, Team Manager<br />5. Mr Lew Han Kit, Misc. Assisting Personnel.<br /><br />There were many mistakes made and we rectified the problems one-by-one, not to mention the pain we experienced due to the wires which tore after the sharp edges of the revolving magnets cut it for being too close, and at one time the magnets flew apart because of the unbelievable velocity of spin, and also two scrapped major designs, each taking a LOT of <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">bloodshed</span>, and for the ones who wish to add an external revolving field similar to this:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-NnKgEQEiv1vQWbQLr6qcbhnv4aCiSar0-5uBu1NtT5wmmcLzx32KvNCJQ1X-3d4qb0VS2ooCQ8PfoRolfKfNLr9iUUwhn1Cm0qJAX76MvaoIsWMUA4M1nr9M2_ES1VGkNgeVj3vZRc/s1600/Image0055.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-NnKgEQEiv1vQWbQLr6qcbhnv4aCiSar0-5uBu1NtT5wmmcLzx32KvNCJQ1X-3d4qb0VS2ooCQ8PfoRolfKfNLr9iUUwhn1Cm0qJAX76MvaoIsWMUA4M1nr9M2_ES1VGkNgeVj3vZRc/s320/Image0055.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5456275275047602178" border="0" /></a>.... With the assumption that it will make the output larger with denser magnetic flux, IT'LL NOT WORK, and the output will be even less. This is true for our case and another team's generator. Anyone who can submit the reason, please do so, and your name will be embedded in this article for giving the explanation.<br /><br />Thanks to everyone involved. May Allah bless us all with the understanding of His creations and ultimately seek refuge under his mercy.<br /><br />Regards,<br />Vizier87Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-75350967278494688512010-03-21T22:26:00.005+08:002010-03-21T23:17:00.224+08:00Vortex Electrica DominionHi.. it's been some time. I'd like to dedicate to all the Vortex Electrica brethren with lyrics I made on my own, cryptically telling stories of the virtual bloodshed we went through in nearly four years in our university to achieve what we have attained now.<br /><br />Only some people will read these lyrics in the way I perceived!<br /><br />Here we go:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Vortex Electrica Dominion</span><br /><br />How long did it take to realize<br />All the time we spent together<br />Lies only in the smoothed edges<br />In a scarred piece of lumber<br /><br />Masters of our own carved pieces.... So REMEMBER!!<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">Chorus:</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Still marching forward to make a kill</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Histories of our own time</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">After conquering the thrill</span> <span style="font-style: italic;"><br />How long did it take to finalize?</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Reliving the chronologies down to a dime!</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">I am the the Vortex</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Living in each of us</span><br /><br />Forged a brotherhood of elders<br />And branded each members<br />"Keepers of our own knowledge"<br />"Harvesters who are always at the edge"<br /><br />So CRINGE!!<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Chorus:</span> <span style="font-style: italic;"><br />Still pounding forward to make a kill</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Histories of their own time</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">After dominating the thrill</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">How long did it take to finalize?</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Reliving the chronologies down to a dime!</span> <br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">I am the the Vortex</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Living in each of us</span><br /><br />(Solo)<br /><br />None of us will stay forever<br />As we will go through the never<br />Zealots of our own cause<br />Masters of our own force<br /><br />I am the Vortex..... Vector SWIRL!!!<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">Chorus:</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Still marching forward to make a kill</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> Histories of our own time</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> After conquering the thrill</span> <span style="font-style: italic;"><br />How long did it take to finalize?</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Reliving the chronologies down to a dime!</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> </span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> I am the the Vortex</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"> Living in each of us</span><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOpJMMjaX3vcITJg9KkAF-to0W597XmkFUJC4iu0bcYQqmeUK7QBDP2IhB048qviafBAbO8nPWNY6BaU-7LgU3EMXqkmjd019MDATd6Ue_fMan-Jw3SFPhN5qvnSmZpBky6k9zmCbXpc/s1600-h/vortex+emboss.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOpJMMjaX3vcITJg9KkAF-to0W597XmkFUJC4iu0bcYQqmeUK7QBDP2IhB048qviafBAbO8nPWNY6BaU-7LgU3EMXqkmjd019MDATd6Ue_fMan-Jw3SFPhN5qvnSmZpBky6k9zmCbXpc/s320/vortex+emboss.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451096562085197938" border="0" /></a><br />Zealotry Seal branded on this page<br />Regards,<br />Vizier87<br /></div>Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-41658202052357893912010-02-24T01:08:00.010+08:002013-10-18T14:38:17.505+08:00Solid-State Weather Systems Electronics: Part 1This would be one of the didactic posts I'll be putting here... since we're gonna talk about electronics... but wait.. I can't be serious for a minute! So here we are breathin' and talkin' electronics like we're talking 'bout football (except I DON'T talk about football).<br />
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Let's start with the first three weather parameters which doesn't need secrecy: Ambient temperature, humidity and barometric pressure. To newbies in electronics, keep this in mind: <span style="color: red;">DOWNLOAD DATASHEETS OF ANY COMPONENT YOU'RE USING, EVEN IF IT IS A DIODE!!!</span><br />
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Ah, I'd like to note: I won't elaborate too much on the electronic connections and circuitry because Google contains billions of 'em, including crappy ones. The best testimony that can be obtained by an electronics hobbyist is a hands-on experience, so please don't expect things to run smoothly after you've connected every terminals with that thinking that you followed a <span style="color: #3366ff;">RANDOM</span> circuit you took from Google is said to be FUNCTIONAL by a <span style="color: #33ccff;"><span style="color: #3366ff;">RANDOM</span> </span>blogger, so your circuit must work. Anyways, you'll still make that mistake everyone commits: the thought that "the circuit is provided, problem solved." so be my guest, make the mistakes, and you'll learn it the hard way.<br />
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Firstly, an <a href="http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM35.pdf"><span style="color: #33cc00;">LM35DZ</span> </a>is a simple thermal sensor which I used for <span style="color: #33cc00;">ambient temperature</span> detection, manufactured and used by the billion, so there's nothing much to it. In stores they usually cost RM5.00 (about 1.50 USD) and <a href="http://my.farnell.com/">Farnell </a>(an international electronics components distributor) offers much better prices.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKVYYsti4xDXVvxvLVAUAs9WS6-cDgw9v0me7cCbYT2nYD_iUGtU6dpp9YYUl6K5QC8e9Gl_Lq2sqdFY6ig9zO0gY4MKvuQ7T-tmTQMlygZLb1Eyg6TmyaHrm9OPvSE4FmLeflQHA788/s1600-h/untitled.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441505100739419826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKVYYsti4xDXVvxvLVAUAs9WS6-cDgw9v0me7cCbYT2nYD_iUGtU6dpp9YYUl6K5QC8e9Gl_Lq2sqdFY6ig9zO0gY4MKvuQ7T-tmTQMlygZLb1Eyg6TmyaHrm9OPvSE4FmLeflQHA788/s320/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 229px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 245px;" /></a>Figure: LM35 Centigrade Sensor</div>
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To anyone using it, or who wants to use it, remember that there is a very important rule: connections! See the figure below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6yJ5DzLQT8yd-DRzYv8Bilr0aP2cWv5PJf8S9FrHgo3inkd-MWhKqdup-s7fuxnSnpnNZvfXmQFTOknflgwzSlf7Zq5L5CxG42vfgsA7x7IH6Y__2NfjL2cVDlhDBrYygTAd197a5WxY/s1600-h/untitled.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441495097283916786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6yJ5DzLQT8yd-DRzYv8Bilr0aP2cWv5PJf8S9FrHgo3inkd-MWhKqdup-s7fuxnSnpnNZvfXmQFTOknflgwzSlf7Zq5L5CxG42vfgsA7x7IH6Y__2NfjL2cVDlhDBrYygTAd197a5WxY/s320/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 241px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 268px;" /></a>Note that it is a BOTTOM VIEW!!!! I made this simple mistake and wasted a lot of time so don't mess your sensors!!<br />
So after this, give it a supply of 5V from a voltage regulator <a href="http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM%2FLM7805.pdf">LM7805</a>. This'll cost another RM1.50.<br />
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Second, <span style="color: #009900;">humidity sensors</span>... I used <a href="http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.cfm/ci_id/146573/la_id/1/document/1/re_id/0"><span style="color: #33cc00;">HCH1000</span></a> capacitive humidity sensor, which is the hygrometer for my weather station and the cheapest by far, around RM26. See below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gPDBVPDm7clSHnYRmNKTXZKj2k4-nzWOjJqSs4snttJZ_ce7J-L3e6BwEw3pk_UQYaQfsZG-Tx1k9fsPWJBeIOfQkuXHPmYoK7qgXdY5C_MZzXbkZzkZP8XGXa9COCkz1OM89rHllPQ/s1600-h/untitled.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441501805502717826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gPDBVPDm7clSHnYRmNKTXZKj2k4-nzWOjJqSs4snttJZ_ce7J-L3e6BwEw3pk_UQYaQfsZG-Tx1k9fsPWJBeIOfQkuXHPmYoK7qgXdY5C_MZzXbkZzkZP8XGXa9COCkz1OM89rHllPQ/s320/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 211px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 214px;" /></a>Figure: Honeywell's HCH1000 capacitive humidity sensor</div>
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This sensor needs to be conditioned according to a circuit provided by the datasheet for HS1101-HS1100 <a href="http://www.humirel.com/product/fichier/HS1101-HS1100.pdf">here</a> and the circuit is here:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfnap1Im9p0LxWy6eWyb0BCKBn-Beg1d5eD3xL4V4ttVt2CH88RFWEprL8f8IYYOJC0r7LxzSVmQD3CCOxKG_ZhsyZuCRZC_nr98DVFA7cZFjh58V9CrqqIb_Y9W4ZJZ2F7_9BcjJwf0/s1600-h/untitled.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441503057904749634" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfnap1Im9p0LxWy6eWyb0BCKBn-Beg1d5eD3xL4V4ttVt2CH88RFWEprL8f8IYYOJC0r7LxzSVmQD3CCOxKG_ZhsyZuCRZC_nr98DVFA7cZFjh58V9CrqqIb_Y9W4ZJZ2F7_9BcjJwf0/s320/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 308px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 311px;" /></a>Figure: Circuit for HCH1000 capacitive humidity sensor conditioning<br />
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You'll need to <span style="color: red;">adjust the ratio between R4 and R2 </span>and I added <span style="color: red;">a 10uF non-polar capacitor in series to the HCH1000</span> to make the response readable by my Digital Multimeter (DMM) in frequency read mode (Buy a good DMM, not the cheap Korean or Chinese ones). Note that it took me a lot of time just to find the right links to introduce these fine adjustments so go figure if yours didn't work.<br />
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To test the sensor, put a damp cloth or tissue near the sensor, and the frequency of the timer output will reduce. This frequency'll be used to be translated in PIC microcontrollers (See Deathclaw's intro into microcontrollers in this blog if you don't know anything about microcontrollers <a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/12/microchip-programming-its-lot-easier.html">here</a>) or you can visit this page: <a href="http://winpicprog.co.uk/">Nigel's PIC page.</a><br />
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Third part: Barometric pressure sensors... I chose the cheapest one, <a href="http://www.freescale.com/files/sensors/doc/data_sheet/MPX4115A.pdf"><span style="color: #009900;">MPX4115A</span></a> available with a price of RM39.00 by Farnell. This sensor is very simple but the documentation regarding it sucks in the 'net. Don't look at the the datasheets if you're figuring out the pinouts, they'll confuse you with three 'styles' of terminals... see this figure which is painfully extricated from a book by Ibrahim Dogan:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bthNgetBdaZvrbbsnJQSYdnEQ_RetIS3Tacas4Df4Jv_rw-VTsNa4cpxRi8W1C8GiHeP6VSbhpc5VdocTkT7tI2FiVaCgl_a_vbkn1p8aR3qxwYSqWwz2objpFgBAWfuy1nfINE86r4/s1600-h/untitled.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441509116176561762" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bthNgetBdaZvrbbsnJQSYdnEQ_RetIS3Tacas4Df4Jv_rw-VTsNa4cpxRi8W1C8GiHeP6VSbhpc5VdocTkT7tI2FiVaCgl_a_vbkn1p8aR3qxwYSqWwz2objpFgBAWfuy1nfINE86r4/s320/untitled.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 268px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 452px;" /></a>Figure: MPX4115A pin descriptions<br />
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This sensor detects changes in barometric pressure, translated in outputs of voltage, so it's simple because its output is from 0-4.8V for a supply of 4.75-5.2v (plug-and-play component, no amplification needed).<br />
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For what's worth, I've presented 6 months of research (finding each sensor took a lot of time!!) and labor where the simplicity of these things are evident. Mistakes have been made and rectified, so I hope this'll pave an easier route for weather systems' researchers who wanted to build a solid-state weather system on their own.<br />
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Alhamdulillah, all this experience is very humbling to me since the more work is poured, the more I realized how much I didn't know about the complexity and beauty of electronics in the human body<span style="color: red;"> (no one has been able to explain why images in the brain, in the region of nanovolts doesn't get mutilated in the presence of even the strongest magnetic fields like in MRI- Magnetic Resonance Imaging machines, where electronic cameras get fuzzed easily with Electronic Jamming devices.)</span> Masya-Allah. This is also the case in weather systems, even with the advancement in technology nowadays, weather prediction are always done with a <span style="color: #cc0000;">certain</span> amount of <span style="color: #cc0000;">certainty</span>, but it is never <span style="color: #cc0000;">certain</span>.<br />
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I'll cover the more powerfully complex parameters for the electronics in the next part, which is rain precipitation, wind speed and wind direction. Stay tuned with Vortex Electrica!!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ld5MdrkpRhdhnJZUl0R-jVfl8Mhu1r1Nm4cCY1DclHyRSkXPidPB1pMQOoa5mR18QkFJ_3RauGqJKKUluRHn3SW_DNq6-k4ibqxd3cCkbuoVbzzte6BabkvTxpembT9WUN9g3CNfyNE/s1600-h/abvort.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441513653735285330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ld5MdrkpRhdhnJZUl0R-jVfl8Mhu1r1Nm4cCY1DclHyRSkXPidPB1pMQOoa5mR18QkFJ_3RauGqJKKUluRHn3SW_DNq6-k4ibqxd3cCkbuoVbzzte6BabkvTxpembT9WUN9g3CNfyNE/s320/abvort.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 272px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Allah has made Vortexes ubiquitous in nature!<br />
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Regards,<br />
Vizier87</div>
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<img alt="" src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ABDULH%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png" style="color: red;" />Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-52449751035538362642010-02-10T01:54:00.008+08:002010-02-10T03:15:43.244+08:00Verdict: Silver!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__GxXz6ImhJMT4OtnACIHt_ZDSPK7lFpWr8ceO7uI81xNMBix9sJoRW8_mOWgzi9w7-FszdHmnQlkQqEYCkAOC0YIPUoDDa2JRLceIrIl_HbKm0cDBxCK6zfIv74tfN60H-asvBLfYho/s1600-h/untitled.bmp"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 235px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi__GxXz6ImhJMT4OtnACIHt_ZDSPK7lFpWr8ceO7uI81xNMBix9sJoRW8_mOWgzi9w7-FszdHmnQlkQqEYCkAOC0YIPUoDDa2JRLceIrIl_HbKm0cDBxCK6zfIv74tfN60H-asvBLfYho/s320/untitled.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5436307738052697106" border="0" /></a><br />Alhamdulillah, Vortex Electrica gained a silver medal in MTE (Malaysia Technology Expo) 2010 for the Solid-State Weather Transmitter.<br /><br />Personally, I am genuinely very thankful to receive this award since we are undergraduates competing with the larger party of projects done by postgraduates which are far more sophisticated. The<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">'but'</span><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span>part comes<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">butting</span> in when you can't but feel a bit disappointed with the way the other innovations are being judged in this expo.<br /><br />I have seen other<span style="color: rgb(255, 204, 0);"> 'gold'</span> projects which are slammed with only <span style="color: rgb(192, 192, 192);">silver</span> or the worse <span style="color: rgb(204, 153, 51);">bronze</span> medals (where my university received substandard evaluation, in my opinion), and the reverse also occurred: Projects which are unfit to be called innovation but made their way through the expo. Also, some of the innovations which received <span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(255, 204, 0);">'gold'</span> </span>are an eyebrow-raiser. I'll spare the details to avoid any controversy.<br /><br />All of what I mentioned are not meant to discredit the judges since my opinion is not the only one which matters, but there are fields where I concede fit to be within my jurisdiction, at least in electronics and structure. I HAVE seen electronics exhibit in the expo which in my kinder words would be said as "redundant". I am totally sure if these projects are uploaded in <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Electro-tech online</span> (an electronics forum I'm actively involved) they'll pelt these 'innovations' with remarks fit for complaints to moderators, to put simply- they'll <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">CRUCIFY</span> those projects. (Trust me, I have 500 +/- posts in that forum, I know how the Americans and Canadians will respond to news like this)... but don't worry... I won't do it.<br /><br />Therefore it is highly important we have judges which are not going to be biased; this is analogous to having <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Pepsi</span> come and evaluate <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Coca-Cola's</span> latest beverages- of course what you'd expect is "<span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">this stuff is nothing much, ours is better 'cause blah blah blah</span>" and all that rubbish.<br /><br />No offense to any party who felt offended, since there are some innovations which deserved what they got. But I won't say our university were fairly judged except mine. PERIOD.<br /><br />If any MTE 2010 JUDGES read this, and felt this article is a face-slammer, just take it as a feedback not from me,<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> BUT FROM MY SUPERVISORS!!</span><br /><br />Regards,<br />Vizier87.Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7212683848273968892.post-74608921419831888572010-02-03T07:44:00.005+08:002010-04-21T17:10:45.532+08:00Surveillance Sentinels: Recycletronics<span style="font-weight: bold;">Did you know that mountains are assigned to the most skilled sentinels? </span>They look out in far, and report in silence using signals oblivious to anyone else except their clan. This is one of the most popular combat tactics' topic: intelligence. But fortunately, we are just waging a war against our own superiors who needs the job to be done. (Wink)<br /><br />Also, snipers (who may reside in mountains) have additional senses: that humidity, temperature, wind speed and direction or even the earth's centrifugal force (Coriolis Force) is in the mind when aiming at a target.<br /><br />Here's my picture of the mobile weather station for the MTE 2010:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZE3-Yrki1P0aJdkTT6FbSVehtJLr-i-hnTfuJraeUmx4fZfNWB7SP5bNfuxOO9A6gQWogKN-lb2sE_xOXul5Ev2vTW5DRTqt4QzHfVgyK7YLfbU_pO1NX3jbDPd5WmtQqDKYur4S_LaE/s1600-h/mte.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZE3-Yrki1P0aJdkTT6FbSVehtJLr-i-hnTfuJraeUmx4fZfNWB7SP5bNfuxOO9A6gQWogKN-lb2sE_xOXul5Ev2vTW5DRTqt4QzHfVgyK7YLfbU_pO1NX3jbDPd5WmtQqDKYur4S_LaE/s320/mte.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5433796548521422002" border="0" /></a><br />I heavily improvised the structural part using scraps like telephones, bicycle chain, CD-ROM drives, radio parts, Norslan incandescent light bulbs thrown by my father (if you can't see a trace of it you really need a pair or glasses with the size of an aquarium-<span style="font-style: italic;">just joking guys</span>), marker pens, CD platters, a good amount of screws, some epoxy glue and shafts from printers. This is also a concept in do-it-yourself (DIY) I'd like to promote: <span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Recycletronics</span> and as I coin the term, I'll be heavily featuring this concept through my artcles in the past (<a href="http://vortexelectricaz.blogspot.com/2009/09/get-your-own-homemade-rechargeable.html">see my article on battery packs!!</a>) , present (you're looking at it) and future. <span style="font-weight: bold;">The complete structure will be unveiled in a final article on this prototype.</span><br /><br />I admire both of the aforementioned concepts , therefore I will elaborate a bit more on weather surveillance:<br /><br /> Most weather stations are mostly mechanical in existence, therefore vulnerable to a lot of factors like extreme conditions and wear-and-tear effect. Also, electronic solid-state equivalents of such systems are very costly. Remember the mercury barometer and thermometer we used to have in secondary school? <span style="font-weight: bold;">Scrap that, because solid-state electronics is making way!</span><br /><br /> The challenge is to reproduce this system with minimal resources for various applications like agriculture (farming precision: raindrop monitoring for precise use of additional water for crops, humidity regulation, etc), events’ planning (wind speed and direction for launching airborne systems, atmospheric hazmat conditions), early warning system (vortex and storm prediction), environmental studies (monitoring system for solar output, wind, and water quality, hazardous materials carried by wind) and so on. So basically the more access we gain over our surroundings, the better it is for ambient precision controls.<br /><br /> The techniques on solid-state wind speed and direction reading features latest improvisation using lower-cost resources with comparable sensitivity as opposed to the sonic technology featured in more advanced and costly designs.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"> Some details regarding structural characteristics and electronics are discovered and is a genuine implementation of some discoveries, which is true for the solid-state wind sensors, and the rest are mostly improvised, with a small amount of plug-ins to complete the design.</span><br /><br /> There'll be another article on how I built some of the sensors, so stay tuned with <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;">Vortex Electrica</span>!<br /><br />Regards,<br />Vizier87.Vizier87http://www.blogger.com/profile/11512229076648388564noreply@blogger.com2